2) Chassis problems.. If your quad runs but you have other problems.. post in here.

Does it usually take a long time to bleed brake?

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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 08:38 AM
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Default Does it usually take a long time to bleed brake?

Originally I thought I had a bad master cylinder because I tried bleeding the brake for a very long time and the fluid would barely move down from the reservoir. I bought a new master cylinder and tried again last night. It took about 15 minutes of constant pumping & bleeder opening/closing, and the caliper barely started to move, but at least the fluid was going down quite a bit. Another 10 minutes and a couple reservoir refills and it moved enough to clamp onto the rotor. After another 10 minutes it didn't seem to grab any tighter. It's not holding strong enough to lock the wheels up, just a small amount of throttle will allow the quad to move. Is this normal to take forever to bleed the air out? There is no fluid leaking from around the caliper seal that I can see. Should I keep bleeding it? Is there a trick?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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Are you bleeding all the brakes? Sometimes these things can be a real pain to get all the air out..
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 09:35 AM
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Sorry, should have mentioned it happens to be a Fushin 90cc, they only had one rear brake, so that's all I have to deal with.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 10:39 AM
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Simple mityvac or a cheap bleeder from Harbor Freight or Northern tool can make bleeding a lot easier.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 11:05 AM
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I agree with OPT...that little device is a huge time saver. You can, however, reverse bleed (the preferred method) using nothing more than a turkey baster (or other large syringe) and tight fitting tube for cheap money...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 12:16 PM
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I actually have one, just didn't think I needed it since I could reach both the master and slave at the same time. I will give that a shot. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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If you finally get em bled, but they still won't hold, it could be the the little piston that the handbrake pushes on. Had trouble with the Wildwood brakes on my AC 400. Finally bought the rebuild kit from the dealer, $27 or so. Totally fixed.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrex
If you finally get em bled, but they still won't hold, it could be the the little piston that the handbrake pushes on. Had trouble with the Wildwood brakes on my AC 400. Finally bought the rebuild kit from the dealer, $27 or so. Totally fixed.
Bought a new one, gotta be air still in the lines, going to try the vacuum pump and see if I can get it all out.... or maybe pads are junk or something on disk?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 03:20 PM
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Need to know what your "feeling" when you hit the brakes...
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DirtDevil101
Need to know what your "feeling" when you hit the brakes...
It was a mildly firm, somewhat squishy resistance throughout about 75% of the handle travel, then it got very hard the last 25% of the pull. I figured it out though. I took the caliper apart, it must have been mildly seized up, I believe the previous owner put the retaining clip in upside down, and it was preventing the pads from traveling smoothly. I greased everything up good and slapped it back together, and the brake feels much better now. The wheels lock up as it should and the pull is nice and firm.
 
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