Intermittent no start/spark
#2
Does the neutral light work when the fault is on? As the 300 has a "known fault" of the wires to the key switch fretting through due to constantly moving with the steering, this cuts the ignition. They go where they come out of the black junction box on the steering column.
If it isn't that, change the plug, then check the voltage at the battery with engine running, over 14.5v and the regulator is overcharging. If it isn't that, checking the wires to the CDI when the fault is on, is a good start. Not sure the wires to the CDI on a 98 are the same, my manual seems to be for 96 and earlier but:-
Check green is earthed
Back/White is live with ign on.
Pale green earthed in neutral (Honda did change this depending on year)
Blue/Yellow circa 300 ohms to earth
Black/Yellow circa 50 ohms to earth.
Intermittent faults are the worst to find, good luck.
If it isn't that, change the plug, then check the voltage at the battery with engine running, over 14.5v and the regulator is overcharging. If it isn't that, checking the wires to the CDI when the fault is on, is a good start. Not sure the wires to the CDI on a 98 are the same, my manual seems to be for 96 and earlier but:-
Check green is earthed
Back/White is live with ign on.
Pale green earthed in neutral (Honda did change this depending on year)
Blue/Yellow circa 300 ohms to earth
Black/Yellow circa 50 ohms to earth.
Intermittent faults are the worst to find, good luck.
#3
I REALLY appreciate any and all help on this one! I've been a auto/ truck technician for 35 + years and can repair most of em with the proper tools and resources but new to this type and my lack of diagnostic info is what is hampering me most This is the GF son's and its a (FREEBEE)!




