All,

I have a 2004 LT80 that won't start. I know my way around 2 strokes pretty well and I am pretty sure that the crank seals on this thing are shot. Does the motor have to come off to replace these or can they be done with the engine on the quad? I have a manual but it's not clear with regard to changing the crank seals.

Thanks

 

You can R&R the seals with the motor in frame. The front clutch and Flywheel have to come off. Have a 2 prong puller for the flywheel?
If you don't mind me asking, what's the compression?

 

Compression is 120. I just did the top end last year. It ran good for a couple of months after the new jug but then the carb pooped out, or so I thought. I put a Kung Pao carb on it and it ran again but not quite right. It was bogging after a min or so before stopping altogether.. I rebuilt the original carb but the same thing happened so it probably wasnt a carb issue to begin with. It's hard to say if it was rich or lean as at times the plug was wet and other times dry. In the middle of messing with it the quad lost spark so I ended up replacing the stator which got the spark back.

Back to the fuel issues. Both carbs are still not running right. I checked the reed and it's fine but I got a new one anyway to be sure. I put it on with no change. I figured I would do the seals and see if those are the deal. By process of elimination there isn't much left. I have all kinds of pullers so I am good there. I don't mind doing things by process of elimination but if you have any other information I would welcome it.

 

It seems you done well.
Only thing I might check before the seals is a possible plugged pipe.
If that's not it, go for the seals. I use Suzuki seals. A cpl bucks each.

 

You may also want to ensure good fuel flow from the tank...

 

Thanks guys. One other item of note that I should have mentioned:

A couple of months ago the fuel valve was left in the "prime" position for a significant amount of time, significant being an hour or so. The engine was heavily flooded to the the point that it would not turn over. After clearing the gas as much as I could the engine did eventually start and run. It smoked a ton but, eventually, it cleared up. That said, ultimately the engine reverted to acting like it before the flood......starting for a while then bogging out after a minute or so. That makes me think that flooded condition has been rectified but I thought I would throw it out there anyway.

 

or it's fuel starvation...the bowl is filling too slowly...just a thought...

 

Hi, I have a 2006 LT 80 would not crank so I done a compression test and only got 60psi. So, I replaced the piston and rings check the reeds valves put it back together and now only getting 50 to 70 psi. Any suggestions on what to check or do.

 

Did you check the bore for wear? Did you try a new ring in the cyl to check gap, (I know not that easy with a two stoke)? Rings have to be the right way up on the piston. First one I did, I missed seeing the marks on them and tried to fit one upside down, it wouldn't go in the cylinder. Others on here report having forced things and broken the new rings.

 

Yeah, I tried a different jug and still got the same result. I was told it could be the Crank Seal or the timing chain.