Just wondering what clutch is in this thing? looks the same as a sleds clutch. I need to know if a polaris sled clutch puller are the same threads, 3/4" X 16 threads per inch. Also are the electric hub lockers still available to purchase new? (forget what they are called) its like a one way bearing. I honestly cant believe this this was still running when I brought it into may garage. There is 1/8" play, in the pto side of the crank! It starts, first pull! This was about one braaaaap away from grenading. I hope the connecting rod bearing is still good. but if it had that much torsional load on it, from being of at an angle, I'm assuming that it will be no good. What type of piston would you recommend putting in this? oem, spx, wisco? I'm pulling the motor anyway to change the crank bearings, so might as well freshen up the top end as well. I told my buddy that if the rod has play in it, I'll have to send it out to get it redone. I'll inspect the rod ends and make that call when i get there.

 

my phone id dead but i will be posting pics

 

Wiseco for the next piston,clutch is a simple non ebs type used in a of of atvs,snowmobiles. Yes 3/4x16 pitch is the thread size for the puller. Hilliards (roll cages) are still available along with armature plates, bearings,seal sleeves,seals,etc. Rebuilding from the bottom up,you need this manual as the water pump needs to be rebuilt also along with checking out the counter balancer bearings and rod bearing.1996 Polaris Scrambler 4X4 Service Manual PDF Download If there is any up and down play on the rod a new rod kit will need to be installed along with new crank bearings and seals.Not a simple engine and everting has to work together.

 

The start of a new project
Yes the start of another project. On top of the many.

Throttle cut out switch was disconected. And needs a new rectum frier.
There were a buch of wires worn bare and more than likely shorting out. With the battery charged and key on i here nothing in the hubs while trying to engage on demand 4x4. So i have to go deeper yet.

 

I have a 96 scrambler here right now and it ran great. But when I started getting into it there are more and more problems. That's why preventative maintenance goes a long way. The pto bearings are right out of this thing. I can't believe it didn't blow up.

 

Yep I agree.. Also under all the dirt/mud on terminal board,the terminals are color keyed that will help if you start pulling wires. As far as the awd,there is a switch in the shift box that has to work right or the awd won't light up and allow power to the hubs. There are several bypasses on this to get around the high dollar switch if need be when you get to this area. Get the cheap manual as you'll need it.

 

It's cheaper to pay a little for preventative maintenance now than to get hit with a big repair bill further down the road. Like Benjamin Franklin said, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

 

Yah, I'm feeling that my patients with this, are drawing near. I'm going to have to bust out the torches to get this clutch off. I really don't like striking the puller end. (In fear of distorting the crank.) So a little heat,........ and run the puller back in. At least i won't need to grab the spider nut tool now. It came off. (the spider and cage) The clutch faces are worn, a new belt would get prematurely worn create excessive heat anyway, and belt debris would intern, get into the crank seal, pto side, and ruin all that was done.

 

Well you can at least find complete new drive clutches for 128 bucks if you make it back down to that area after addressing all the top end problems. Can get frustrating and expensive on machines that have been neglected.Sounds like that clutch is a good paper weight anyway.ALL non ebs clutch will work on basically all models.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Primary-Dri...tWKo7P&vxp=mtr