1987 susuki lt230 with big bore kit has trouble idling and runs really rough when hot
#1
1987 susuki lt230 with big bore kit has trouble idling and runs really rough when hot
I bought this older quad as my first quad ever. We cold and not riding for a bit it will kick start almost first try but after riding for a bit will not Kickstart for the life of me. It also will not idle without giving it some throttle. Also after about 40 min or so it started to bog and lose a bunch of power and I could smell the faint smell of gas. I'm new to quads and want to try to fix this asap.
#2
#5
I have mended thousands of quads and extremely rarely have done any "tuning" on a carb, why? If it ran right with the settings it had, it will run right with the same settings once you fix the fault. Find the fault, fix it, and the machine will run fine unless someone has been fiddling with the carb settings. Many quads with carbs won't idle for 15 min anyway, single cylinder engines with basic carbs don't idle for long, the lumpiness they display is the odd misfire and, at idle speeds, you are a couple of misfires away from the engine stalling . If you are not riding it turn it off. Air cooled models, not fitted with fans, can overheat if left idling, as there is no cooling airflow across the engine.
#6
It's had this issue since I got it. And sounds like its never run right what happens is after riding for a little bit, less than 30 minutes, it won't kick start at all and if you do get it started it starts to lose power super fast. I'm taking the carb apart tomorrow to make sure everything is there and to clean it.
#7
That seems a lot like a stator or other ignition problem. As soon as it stops, check for a spark and, if there isn't one, you definitely have an ignition fault. Usually stator, exciter coil or pulse coil, as they get hot from the engine. It is difficult to catch them while the fault is on but if you are near enough to an AVO meter, checking for AC volts from the coils, or a way out resistance can pin point what it is. Once it cools a bit, the fault goes off, so gives normal readings. I had an Ozark doing this and it drove me mad, even sent the stator to a specialist who said it was OK. It was only when I managed to test it with fault on I found a very low voltage on the pulse coil. Got a new pulse coil from eBay (Suzuki make you buy the whole stator) fitted it and have had no more problems.
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#8
#9
As I wrote above, pulse coil and exciter coil are the usual suspects but the plug itself is the easiest to change, and ignition coil and CDI are other possibilities. Check those pulse and exciter coils for AC volts when cranking. I don't know what they should be, but a marked difference between cold and when the fault is on, would indicate which is faulty. You can check their resistances too, for any big difference between readings cold and when the fault is on. It is being able to do the checks before the fault goes off again that is the tricky bit.
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