Yamaha Discussions about Yamaha ATVs.

more raptor trouble!

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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 03:08 PM
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TitanRacing25's Avatar
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well I wrecked my raptor, just flipped it on the side, and it bent my subframe and upper a-arm, and broke my oem grab bar, thats ben a while, but heres the new one... I took off my parking brake and put a block off on, but now it doesnmt run worth a crap they said its a engine brake problem, anyoine heard about this?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 03:35 PM
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Engine brake problem??? sorry, that's a new one on me.

hey, I have to ask since no one else did. Don't go off on me but...
are you positive it isn't the parking brake rev limiter kickin' in? if that switch is not pushed in ( ya need to short the switch ) or you just pulled off the wire leads, the CDI will think the brake is on and yep, it sounds like crap when ya juice it.

hey sorry dudes, it had to be asked! later.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 03:38 PM
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Wassup man, I don't know if this will help, but when I have experience some unusual things with the parking brake. But Yamaha could have design it this way. In other atvs you are able to rev the engine with the park brake on, I don't know if it has to do with the clutch being pulled in on the raptor that operates the park brake.

In other words when I have my Raptor on the trailer and I have the park brake applied and I start it to rev it up or what ever that case may be. It will sputter like the gas is turned off and if you gas it too much it will backfire. It seems to be some sort of rev limiter or something to kept you from rev the engine when the park brake is applied.

As soon as I deactivate the park brake it works fine. And revs fine. Maybe it is something Yamaha instilled in their design for safety. Sort of like the when you put a sportbike's kickstand down while it is in 1st gear. It immediately kills the engine, like a kill switch. It is on every crotch rocket I know of. It is design to be a safety feature.

Don't know for sure, but hope I help.

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]
 
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 06:53 PM
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Yes, there is a rev-limiter built in to the parking brake to keep you from trying to start off with the brake still on. I notice it from time to time when I start my Raptor up with the PB still applied. The Raptor has so much low-end power you would likely fry your parking brake before you realized you had left it on. I suspect that this is what has happened to Titan's machine. I'm sure that you need to do something with the switch when you remove the PB because it's thinking your brake is on the whole time.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 07:25 PM
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Hay , just follow the parking brake wire down to the wiring harness and unplug
it. its that simple.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2001 | 11:32 PM
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must not be as simple as ya think, i've tried pushing the sensor looking thing on the PB in and revving it and also I've had it unpluged, neither has helped, and yeah man i said engine brake cuz it is what my yamaha dealer said it was no nead to be smart about it.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 12:36 PM
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When I replaced my clutch lever I unplugged the white connector and left it and I unplugged the two green connectors (they are quick disconnects) and plugged the two from the machine side back together. This bypasses the rev limiter and also allows you to start it in gear. Works great!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 03:16 PM
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If you have removed the parking brake rev limiter switch from the clutch assembly and pushed the switch in and the engine still runs like crap, then the circuit isn't getting completed or this is not your problem. I don't think you can just unplug the wires as others have suggested since the circuit must be completed for the bike to run - meaning power must be passing through the wire. The way the switch works is that it creates an open circuit not a closed circuit when the parking brake is activated.

It is possible that the wires are not properly connected to the wiring harness thus making it impossible to complete the circuit. To test the circuit, leave the parking brake rev limiter switch disconnected from the clutch assembly. Start your bike. Then hook up a diagnostic test light or meter reader to each end of the wires where they connect into the switch. Make sure current is passing through the wire when you press the button into the switch (the light should glow or your ohm meter should have a reading). If not, something is wrong with the switch or the wiring. You can test whether it is the switch by jumping the wires. Just connect a small piece of speaker wire to each end of the wires where they connect into the switch. Trying revving the engine. If it revs fine then the switch is definitely bad.

Hope this helps. Just reply if you need more direction.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 12:59 AM
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well i found out the reason its running like **** after i pulled the sensors off the parking brake, it's because the crappy air filter fell apart!!!! thanks alot for the replys
 
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