Buddy screwed up my BANSHEE idle kit, HELP!!!!
#1
Guys/Gals,
I am in the process of removing the TORS junk from the top of my banshee carbs and to make a long story short, my buddy tapped the left side carb hole TOO BIG. Now the Idle screw will just slide in and out. I need some recommendations on fixing this. So far I hae been told JB Weld, Heli-Coil (not sure if there is enough room to re-drill). I have wrapped the idle screw in Teflon tape and screwed it in(have not reinstalled yet), which seems to be a temporary fix (going on a trip this weekend), but I need a long term, permanent solution. Suggestions needed!!! Thanks...
I am in the process of removing the TORS junk from the top of my banshee carbs and to make a long story short, my buddy tapped the left side carb hole TOO BIG. Now the Idle screw will just slide in and out. I need some recommendations on fixing this. So far I hae been told JB Weld, Heli-Coil (not sure if there is enough room to re-drill). I have wrapped the idle screw in Teflon tape and screwed it in(have not reinstalled yet), which seems to be a temporary fix (going on a trip this weekend), but I need a long term, permanent solution. Suggestions needed!!! Thanks...
#2
The next time I have my carbs off, I plan on taking pictures.
If I remember right...the motion pro kit came with a tap? It seems it would be hard to mess up, unless you tried to use a power drill or something to run the tap through with.
Anyways..... After filing and tapping the plugged hole on the side of the carb, I went one step further. Even though my idle screws fit the threads nice and tight...They were still backing themselves out after a day of riding. I tried putting springs and a washer...that helped a bit. So in the end....I drilled another small hole in the side of the idle adjustment tube(for lack of a better term)...tapped that....and used a small set screw with an allen head on it. I very rarely have to adjust the idle while on the trail....so the extra set screw to loosen is no problem. Plus you do not have to remove the carbs to get to it.
It's been a year at least...and no problems with the idle screws coming loose. I would do the job for you if you were local...It's quite easy and effective.(if you have a tap kit...the rest of the supplies will only cost you a few cents and a bit of time)
Just remember that the carb is kind of tender...use a slow speed and a sharp bit for drilling (cutting oil helps too).... The set screw can be had at any hardware store..or better yet, a model shop.
In your case...JB weld may work....I would fill the hole completly...center tap it, and try again with the thread chaser. Just take the carb off first [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] You don't want any metal shavings in that engine.
good luck.
If I remember right...the motion pro kit came with a tap? It seems it would be hard to mess up, unless you tried to use a power drill or something to run the tap through with.
Anyways..... After filing and tapping the plugged hole on the side of the carb, I went one step further. Even though my idle screws fit the threads nice and tight...They were still backing themselves out after a day of riding. I tried putting springs and a washer...that helped a bit. So in the end....I drilled another small hole in the side of the idle adjustment tube(for lack of a better term)...tapped that....and used a small set screw with an allen head on it. I very rarely have to adjust the idle while on the trail....so the extra set screw to loosen is no problem. Plus you do not have to remove the carbs to get to it.
It's been a year at least...and no problems with the idle screws coming loose. I would do the job for you if you were local...It's quite easy and effective.(if you have a tap kit...the rest of the supplies will only cost you a few cents and a bit of time)
Just remember that the carb is kind of tender...use a slow speed and a sharp bit for drilling (cutting oil helps too).... The set screw can be had at any hardware store..or better yet, a model shop.
In your case...JB weld may work....I would fill the hole completly...center tap it, and try again with the thread chaser. Just take the carb off first [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] You don't want any metal shavings in that engine.
good luck.
#3
"suggestions needed."
Get a new buddy!
No seriously, like sAyIt_fmf, I installed my Toomey idle kit with no trouble at all. If his suggestions don't work (probably will), think about getting a carb off of Ebay. They sell pretty cheap on there.
Get a new buddy!
No seriously, like sAyIt_fmf, I installed my Toomey idle kit with no trouble at all. If his suggestions don't work (probably will), think about getting a carb off of Ebay. They sell pretty cheap on there.
#4
easy fix, A friend did the same thing to his blaster and I fixed it by retapping it (1/4 X 20 I think) drill it with a #6 drill bit and I took a bolt on the grinder and put a rounded end on it (MAKE SURE THE POINT IS FLAT) ran a die up it and put a nut on it and screwed it in, It still works to this day years later. JB weld will just cause problems
#5
Thanks for the help guys. My buddy said he ran the tap through it twice bec ause the first time it was kinda "sticky"! The only reason I did not do it myself was do to the fact I did not have a grinder. I will be getting one soon. Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions...
Roostking...
Roostking...
#6
Keep in mind you mustalways do everything twice (each side should be the same).
Tap the hole you currently have, and machine a bolt so it looks like an idle screw...you'll just have bigger idle screws than "stock".
Tap the hole you currently have, and machine a bolt so it looks like an idle screw...you'll just have bigger idle screws than "stock".
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