The spec is for them to be within 2cmhg of each other. Mine were actually about 2.1cmhg apart. I turned the bike on and off to make sure. There is a screw to adjust it. The screw is VERY VERY sensitive. I turned it the smallest amount possible while still moving it and then they were in synch. I played a bit more turning the screw more in both directions to make sure things were working correctly. I turned the bike on and off and played with the throttle too.
I got a synchronizer for about $62. I got it from overseas since I couldn't find one in the U.S. that didn't have mercury in it. This thing works incredible and is super easy to use. It's very easy to read too. It's called Carbtune II.
The web site is:
http://www.carbtune.com/

I hope this helps guys.

 

Any difference in how she runs?

 

It's warm today. I'll let you know when it gets cold again next week. It runs great anyway, so I don't expect an improvement that will be noticable. The direction book says if the sync is off then one one cylinder will run hotter than the other. Since I was at the outer range of spec, there will probably be little difference, but now I know it's right.

 

Jeff, do you think there was any gain in performance to warrant going through the work? Is there a noticeable difference in how the engine runs? Keep posting, your stuff is interesting and informative. I like folks who write well.

 

It's a super simple operation to perform, really no work involved at all. As sensitive as that adjustment screw is I wonder if anyone is out of spec. Once it cools off I'll be able to make a worthwhile assessment of running.

I am also trying to find a sweet spot for the pilot screws as it gets cooler. I made one adjustments thus far. Spec is to start at 2 1/4 turns out. I am at 2 1/2 turns out. This was adequate as it got to the upper 40's. We'll see if any more is required as it gets colder and snows soon.