I just bought a 1987 Honda Four Trax 2 wheel drive ATV.

Does this happen often on ATV's ??
Somebody tried to weld this one and it broke again.
Where can I order Honda ATV Parts on the Internet???


I need new rear axle.
Email me direct at: larry1@vnet.net

 

Try the Dennis Kirk site. Call the 800 number and get a catalog. Or ask them over the phone maybe. They have a lot of stuff like that so its worth a shot. A last ditch effort would be the local honda dealer who can get it, but will probably bend you over the counter on the price.

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Andy Bassham *(1999 Arctic Cat 500 4x4, 1989 Honda 300)*

 

Yes breaking an axle happens, especially if it was still stock. Welding an axle definitely is not the way to go, its never going to be strong enough, also a bent axle that has been straightened may not hold up long (depends on how you ride) because it loses tensile strength. Look at it this way, hold your finger out and have somebody yank it from side to side and see how long before it breaks, that's basically what an ATV axle has to endure.

If you purchase a new axle, I recommend either Lonestar or RPM. Depending on what kind of riding you do you may want the adjustible 2+2 axle over just a standard heavy duty if you race anything other than woods. If you just ride trails you can get one in stock length. Lonestars are a little more than say a Durablue, but much better. I hear people say a Durablue is better, but I've bent them before, and everybody I race with say they are no good also. For example, 19 axles broke at Red Bud National Quad Championships a few years back(theres always a few every year), 18 of them were Durablue. I'm not saying that a lonestar will never go bad, any axle will fatigue after time, but lonestars usually bend before they break, Durablues usually just break. You can finish a race on a bent axle, not a broken one. Also both companies offer a lifetime warranty with their 2+2 race axles, but Durablue only replaces one then next time you have to pay half the cost of a new one and so-on, Lonestar doesn't pro-rate the warranty like that as far as I know. A friend of mine has had a lonestar replaced 7 times.

You can pick up an axle from almost any company listed in the ads in an ATV magazine, I personally have been using Last Rebel Racing for most of my needs at (909-338-0368).

Good Luck.

[This message has been edited by Sickman (edited 11-15-1999).]

[This message has been edited by Sickman (edited 11-15-1999).]

 

Is it a fourtrax 250R or a Fourtrax 250 4-stroke utility? There is a big difference in the kind of responses you will get. The last one sounded like the axle for the 250R.

------------------
Andy Bassham *(1999 Arctic Cat 500 4x4, 1989 Honda 300)*

 

It's a Honda FourTrax 250 4 cycle utility with the racks on it. Two wheel drive.
No, I just want a Honda replacement axle.
I called 3 diffirent Honda ATV dealers and the cost at all three was 177.00 for the axle.
I also need the following, these were the prices they gave me....

Left handle bar clutch lever : $18.61
Left Handle bar lever perch : $41.50
Throttle Cable : $17.03
Rear Axle : $177.52
Rear Brake Shoes : $22.69
New Honda Seat : $241.13
Front Fenders : $282.30
Rear Fenders : $231.49

I guess these are Honda original parts....
Is there any After market parts available??

Thanks for all the replys, This is a great BBS & Websight. This is my first owned ATV.
I just want to use it for Hunting & Fun.
(no racing or anything.)
I only paid $200.00 for it.

 

Hey storm5, first off let me congradulate you on your excellent purchase! Now most people think that these bikes are old, outdated, slow, underpowered, and ugly utility atvs, but that's not necessarily true. I too have an '87 250, and it was my first utility bike, and I have owned it since it was new. I have done A LOT of things to it to improve the looks and usability. First off, I have cut the original J-arms off of it, and adapted a 300 2WD front end to it. So now I have a lot more travel with the A-arms and a slightly shorter turning radius. And about two years ago, the entire bike was rebuilt and refurbished. I bought all new plastic($700) had the entire engine and tranny rebuilt($900) and then while it was torn apart, I had the frame powdercoated, and built aluminum skid plates for the belly, a arms and swing arm. And then after I put it back together, I installed a cobra pipe and uni air filter with air vents in the air box lid. I have also built a heavy duty front bumper with holes in the side so that I can attach a tow bar. I am also considering getting a dual wheel kit for the back, and put 4 24x9x11 wooly copy tires on it, because it definately has the power to pull them, I am now running 25x13x9 wooly copies in the rear, and 23x8x11 fronts. That would have to be the single most best modification I can think of for the old 250's, and they fit perfectly with no interferance, even with the stock J arms.
Good luck!

350XX, 250R, 200XX, 450S, 300 2WD