ok i didn't install my jet kit my self so i am not totaly sure about this. ok i live in North Dakota ( i don't know what the hight is here ) my atv back fires just a little bit and i think it mite be the jet. i have the dj126, dj130, dj134, dj138 jets left over! i don't know which one they used? what should i do? or does it back fire a little bit when you let off the gas? thanks for eny help!

 

This is an easy problem, it is a de-accelleration backfire I take it.
Under your carb forward of the float bowl there is a air/fuel mixture jet, screw this jet all the way in (lightly, don't tighten it) and then turn it out 2 1/2 turns, if it is already there turn it out 3 turns this will stop the back fire.
Lets get the jetting rite now. First you can loosen the hose clamps, remove the throttle cable and pull the carb out the pipe side of the quad, the choke cable is a pain so try to work with it beside the quad.
After adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw, take it for a ride get it in third or fourth gear and pin the throttle wide open try to ride for 3 to 5 minutes like this, shut it off at that throttle position and pull the plug, the plug should look like a cream and coffee color, if it's dark go down a jet size, if it's white go up a jet size. Even if it's cream and coffee in the very middle but black on the outer ring, still go down one jet size. o yah, try to do this with a new plug.
Then look under your thumb throttle, move the throttle to it's full range of motion, make two marks under there one at half throttle and one at a little less than quarter throttle. Set your throttle limit screw so the throttle only goes half way, run the quad at half throttle for 3 to 5 minutes then stop at that throttle position and check the plug again, the same colors apply. If the plug is dark raise the c-clip on your needle one slot, if it's white lower the c-clip one slot.
Then do the same for quarter throttle, if it's dark screw your air/fuel mixture screw in 1/4 turn if it's lean turn the air/fuel mixture screw out one turn.
You can do this over several days or weeks, but believe me when you get it rite you won't only have a quicker quad than now, but you will master the art of jetting.
When I got mine rite with the pipe, air filter, and jet kit, I could put the quad in first and touch the throttle and the front wheels come up about six inches, and if you run 1st up to about 2/3rds throttle and hit second it will flip on yaAlso if they didn't use any exhaust sealent on your pipe joints, this will make it a pain to tune. Go get some RTV black high temp sealent, about 4 bucks, pull the pipe apart at the joints and smear some RTV over the small mla end and re-insert it back together and tighten the clamps. Believe it or not this does a good bit to the bottom end power.
Hope this helped[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

hey thanks for all your help and i will do that but i have one more question? where is the c-clap on the needel located at? o ya one more thing whene i port and polish my head what ealse do i need for it? like to corect the low end lose? and do i have to rejet it when i do it?

 

Sorry about that bluekawirider,
The needle c-clip is, there is a top cover to the carb held on by four screws, remove this cover but hold on to it thier is a light spring under it and it tends to fly off to no were. You will find a rubber diaphram under the cover, pull this diaphram up wich will pull the slide out. At the bottom of the slide the needle will be hanging out, push up on the needle slowly to note the order the parts are in on the inside. On the needle you will see a black c-clip, it should be on the 3rd or midle slot now. This is what I was refering to.
When you re-install the slide just insure the needle goes in the little hole and the edge of the diaphram goes back in it's groove.
No matter what your machanical skill level is this is not very hard to do. If you get confused or lost go to www.dynojet.com, here you will fined a diagram of the carb.
port/polishing the head comes in many different ways, what you want is a match porting, what this does is line the intake and exhaust up better with the ports, then the rest is getting the imperfections out and realy just giving it a good polish job. Port/polish jobs are pretty technical, I advise you not to do it on your own.
Getting a higher compression piston, 10.5:1 will take care of any bottom loss you would find. The piston cost $165 and you can get it in a stock bore size if you wish.
Any thing you do will require a jet change. Even in the change from summer to winter will require you to change the main out once a year going up one in the winter and down in the summer. But no fear do the jetting proceedure I just gave you and jetting will become a breeze for ya.
Don't try to do all that jetting in one day, turn the air/fuel mixture out 2 1/2 turns, stick the #134 main in, insure the c-clip is on the third from the top slot and go out and do your main plug checking one day and then do your needle some other day and then your pilot.
Getting the exhaust sealed off is real important thow, try to get that done before you start.

 

hey thanxs, my exhaust didn't come with eny clamps so the machanic just put some selint in the conections instead and i haven't seen eny leaks so far! do i need to get eny thing for the port and polish or can they do it just in the shop? and about the cam do you think i shuld get the sport cam? i have been reading on it and the racing cam takes some low end away and puts it in the top but i don't want that i need more low and mid the most! ok to get this straght i will first= perfect the jetting right then= port and polish, piston, cam. next rejet it agien! is that right? thanks for all your help. my parents are worred that i mit blow the motor if i jet it rong? but i think i can handel it. like you said i have to rejet it for summer eny ways!

 

You have it rite.

Were have you been looking at cams at. I've talked with web and they wanted to try and start doing them, I know 14min got one from them and he said it was kinda mild, mickey also makes one, but I haven't closed that deal with him yet.
The cam in the lakota isn't bad at all. So far I haven't found a cam wich requires heavier valve springs so you can put the cam in at any time. With the heads side entry cam it makes it a snap.
Let me know were you found cams at, I would like to take a look.
Buy your self a top end gasket set, this way you can replace the valve seals before the valves ar put back in, other than that you should be good to go.
Oh yah, talking with 98lakota he said a stock compression and port/polished head made him put the 12T sprocket back on, but he says he loves it.

 

Trailblazer,

I believe we are approximately 1,000 feet above sea level in ND.

Daryn

 

i was just reading some past forms where some people where talking about them! so do you think i should get the sport cams or not? will they help if i get port and polish, piston, gaskets. i have about $300 to spend will this get me it out of rocky mountian atv, or a little more?

 

The high comp piston cost $165, depending on who does the port/polishing will dictate that price.
I would hold off on the cam for now, it always can be added later.

As port/polishing goes, I think it would be best if you take me up on that quote I private messangered you a few days ago.
Get the piston, I'll take care of the rest of what you need, the rest should be just oil and a oil filter and maybe a new spark plug.

If you use that quote I gave you the other day, that includes port/polish, valves lapped, and top end gasket set.

But yes all of it will cost you about the amont of money your talking about.
If you opt to go with the cam after this work is done, it's pretty easy to do and you won't have to remove nothing but two screws to get at the cam.

 

so you will port and polish it for me? i would have to send it to you then right? well i will hold of with the cams for now. i was reading in the JR Graham mag and was woundering if i sould get the .040" piston it comes with all the gaskets and stuff but do i have to get new slev or do i have to bore it to a 77mm? thanxs?