I am looking to buy a trailer for my soon to be ATV...is there anything I should look for...???

 

make shure that the frame and the decking is in good condition. you dn't want something tha will give out on you in a short while. also make shure the trailer is not more than the vehicle you are useing to pull it with can handle. (Kind of oblivious) also look at the lights, make sure those work to.

 

You may want to look into a Karavan. I bought a 5'x8' tilt bed which is very sturdy. I bought it for about $600.00 but it may be more in N.S. I would stay away from the great deals on landscape trailers. The cheaper ones look attractive with their drop ramps and easy to cleam mesh floor but they are a rattle trap. The Karavan is so solid you have to look behind you to make sure it is still there! They are highway rated so you can go pretty much anywhere.

Good luck!

 

I went the cheap way and ordered a put-it-together-yourself 8'x4' trailer from harbor freight. Then couldn't take my eyes off my rear view mirror as I was too afraid the flimsy thing (rated at 1000 lbs) would fold in half on the next bump. Then I purchased a properly sized and weight rated trailer. 10'x4', 13" tires, 2200lb weight rating. Tire size should be kept in mind, bigger = better (for highway speeds). It also seems that a longer trailer will "trailer" better, not as much sway. Tilt beds and side rails are a nice convenience. Don't take the cheapest route if you want piece of mind.

 

you wont regret spending the extra $ for aluminum
check out triton trailers or featherlite for a great lightweight trailer
i have one of each and they tow so much easier than steel trailers with the added plus of better fuel mileage and less wear and tear on your tow vehicle.

 

remember this: "There's no such thing as a trailer that's too big". I bought a 5x10, then took it right back for a 61/2 x 16. I wish I would have taken it back and got the 61/2 x 20 but I already built a gate for it so it's too late. Make sure you can load at least 2 quads on it with little effort. Keep in mind though, the bigger the heavier. Pulling it is not as important as stopping it!

My 6.5 x 16 foot tandem axle with electric brakes and bulldog hitch was $1,085.

 

the bigger the heavier...all the more reason to bite the bullet and buy aluminum!

 

When buying a trailer to haul your quads on you must first decide how many quads your hauling. Personally I would get one that could haul at least two quads. Now figure the Dry weight of a quad is around 650#. If I remember correctly, oil weighs 7# per gallon and Gas weighs 5# per gallon. If your quad holds 2 quarts of oil and 5 gallons of gas that is another 28#. Now add Rack Bags and other accessories you're probably pushing another 100#. Your total weight is now 778#. Give yourself some wiggle room to haul extra cans of fuel and camping gear. figure around 900#-1000# per quad.

The things you need to look at are the axle, spindles, hubs, and tire load ratings. Each side of the trailer can handle half the total weight. If anyone of these individual components are rated below the weight you are planning to haul they will fail. You also need to look at the the placement of the Axle. For every foot in length of the trailer the Axle should be placed 1" back of center for a single axle and 1/2" for tandem Axle. (this is a general rule) Some trailers are designed for a specific purpose such as hauling cars, horses, or other equipment. These specific desgined trailers will have different axle placements. The axle placement is what controls the amount of tounge weight.

I would also look at the structure of the trailer. Make sure the spacing isn't too far apart. The welds are clean and smooth. Overtime the decking may sag if there is too much space. If the trailer has wood decking make sure it is 3/4" thick. Anything thinner will cause the wood to flex. Look at the tounge How far underneath the trailer does it extend? I would stay away from trailers where the tounge just attaches to the front. The tounge beam should extend back to the first axle.

There are two basic types of axles. Spring and torsion. The torsion axles will give a smoother ride but cost more. The simple spring set up is less expensive but will give a little rougher ride. For a little extra ease of towing and less swaying see how much toe and camber is placed on the axle. I like a 1/2" of positive camber and 1/4" toe in. Generally a lot of swaying in a single axle trailer is caused by misalignement of the axle and/or no camber or toe. Look at the hubs and see if they just have a cap or a device called a buddy bearing. If they just have a cap then you need to remove the hub a couple times a year and make sure the bearings are well greased. If you get the buddy bearing these devices are designed to allow you to grease the bearings without removing the hub. (although I still do just to make sure the rear bearing is well lubricated).

If you have the extra money aluiminum trailers are great but won't hold up to the abuse of dirt roads as well as a steal trailer. Enclosed trailers will protect your investment and provide you with a place to get in out of the weather or sleep. A lot of times you can find a used enclosed trailer relatively cheap.


Also look and see how you can tie down your load. Where are the tie down cleats located? I like one that has both perimeter cleats and recessed cleats in the floor. Just make sure that the cleats are backed by metal underneath the trailer. This will prevent them from pulling through.

Another note is to check your local state/country laws. In the U.S. a trailer is not covered by your automobile insurance. You need to have a seperate insurance on the trailer.

 

ttaylor

That is some of the best information on basic trailers that I have read. I would add that I recently bought a double axle enclosed trailer for the quads. Some of the things that I have learned.

1. From talking to my insurance agent, liability insurance is not required for the trailer as the truck policy covers liability. Collision and theft insurance is not covered (as you noted). I was able to get a rider policy on my truck for around $25 per half to fully cover the trailer.

2. One thing that will make a double axle trailer sway is the distribution on the axles. My trailer is 8 foot wide with the wheels underneath the trailer (like a snowmobile trailer). When I first got it, I didn't have my hitch set up right and it was canted to far forward, thus causing it to sway. I changed to a higher hitch to level the trailer on the axles.

3. Another point to consider is trailer brakes. In Ohio, any trailer with a dry weight of over 2,000 lbs must have brakes on a least one of the axles. My trailer weighs 2,400 lbs and has electric brakes on both axles. Most trailers will come equipped with brakes if required, but it is worth checking into your state laws just to be safe.

4. Another point to consider is weight distribution and tongue weight. Some vehicles advertise a certain tongue weight rating. However, when you put that amount on the vehicle, it will sag it pretty good from worn springs and shocks. I would always get a trailer that has about 20% less tongue weight than my maximum to allow for this.

Hope this is as insightful as some of the other posts.