I've got a 2000 DS that suffers from the hesitation problem that others like wolfman have explained. When laying into the throttle exiting corners, if the RPMs are not high enough it will bog out coughing along the way untill RPMs build up. Its very anoying! Like someone else mentioned, If I slip the clutch to gain RPM it will then take off like it should. I've tried stretching the carb spring to 135mm. This may have helped some but not alot. I updated the carb with the 2001 parts: spring, main jet shroud, larger starter jet. The 2001 spring I was sold is significantly shorter than the 2000 and if I remember correctly has more windings and a bit larger wire diameter. I found the stretched 2000 spring to work possibly better that the 2001 spring. I did not try stretching the 2001 spring. I am running a K&N filter in the airbox with the lid on, and am using a muffler cap with a larger outlet. I've tried the stock mainjet and up to two sizes larger. I ride primarily on the trails in Black River Falls, Wisconsin where the elevation is not much above sea level. Temperatures range from 50 to 80 degrees.

I'm guessing someone has determined a fix for this, and would really appreciate information. I did search the archives under: "hesitation" and "bogging", but found only info on the stretching of the spring.

Thanks in advance, Bill

 

I had a very similar problem with my 2000 and found my float bowl hight was out of spec. The bogging happened only on rough terrain or when I was throwing the bike around. It's worth a look. For what it's worth, the dyno jet kit does help the responsiveness of the carb, but you need to find your problem first. Have you tried riching up the mid range by raising the needle( lowering the clip)

 

My '01 acted the same way from day 1 off the showroom floor, especially if I hammered the throttle to take a hill out of a corner without much run at it first, and I got sick of slipping the clutch just to get rpm.
The Dynojet kit was a great performance enhancer, simply because the design of the needle smoothes out every bit of throttle range making it smoother and crisper than I ever anticipated. When you compare the needles side by side, the difference is very obvious, and well worth the money.
On the other hand, if your problem is new, and it didn't always act up like this until recently, then there's a problem like majorecho said, but if its just always been this way, or became this way after installing a new pipe, then the kit will most likely cure it.

 

I was ahving the same problem yesterday at the Iron Rane OHV park... TRy loosening your gas cap a bit... Fixed my low RPM nogging

 

Since you have a 2000:

Clean fuel filter on petcock.

Clean oil filter on oil tank.

Make sure coil wires are tight.

Torque coil mounting bolts to ensure good ground and good spark.

Better gas tank breather.

Clean gunk out of two black carb vent lines.

 

Thanks for the tips. My DS has had this problem all along. I took the carb off today to check the float height. My floats do not look like the ones shown in my 2000 service manual. It states the float height to be 10mm +/-0.5mm, and shows the measurement perpendicular to the bowl seating surface inline with the main jet to the bottom most surface of the floats. It says to turn the carb upside down, but also says to be careful not to compress the spring in the float valve....well, the floats weight will compress that spring under their own. So I took the measurement by holding the carb so the floats just touch the pin in the valve but so the spring is not compressed. The measurement I get is much more than 10mm, more like 12.5mm (which if anything would be more lean right?). However, the floats are parallel to the float bowl seating surface, so I'm guessing the manual is in error? I went one step further and used a piece of clear tubing on the bowl drain and held it up along side the carb. Then turned the fuel back on and opened the bowl drain screw so I could see what level the fuel was at. Its about 1/8" above the bowl seating surface. Is this correct? How are the rest of you measuring float height?
I re-installed the 2001 spring after stretching it out about 3/4", installed the original 165 main jet (I was running a 175), and lowered the needle two positions. I'm changing too many things all at once maybe, but am thinking that if I was rich before this will be a large enough change to be noticable. It runs well in the limited space I have in town, but I'll have to get out where I can really run it.
Thanks again, and I'll keep you posted. Bill

 

This weekend I experienced this same problem. I started with a Dynojet 185 and rejetted up to a 195. It really didnt help the problem at all. I couldnt hold 3rd gear up comp hill at Dumont to save my life. Most embarassing was perhaps the stock DS that beat me. Im led to believe that it is a jetting issue. On the flats it ran ok and there was no hesitation or shuddering. It just seemed like it had no nuts when trying top pull third gear. I was running Geckos so if anything I should have been spinning and not bogging the motor from excessive traction. Any help appriciated. Repeat

 

Also equally embarassing was the stock predator that beat me. Guess I know what im doing with my tax return. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

 

EErider, I too was having the same problem with bogging and hesatation. That was when I had just installed my RW pipe, CDI and larger jet. I thought it was a faulty CDI, but I took the air box lid off and it made all the difference in the world. Thank goodness it was just something simple for me, try the little stuff first. Hope it works out for ya!!!





2000 DS650