Does anyone know if the X marks on the outer cover, the spider, the inner moveable sheeve, and the back of the fixed sheeve are supposed to all be lined up? I was told by Rick Ritter that they should be lined up. Mine came from the factory 120 degrees out of line.

 

I think its the outer the spider and the moveable sheeve he ment

 

Yep, they are supposed to be lined up. If they are not you need to line them up. They are balanced units and the X's make sure they stay that way. Also if Rick tells you something it is going to be right.Bubba

 

Thanks for this post.Ive changed my primary springs so many times and never knew there were marks for reassembly.I guess I had better check to see if mine line up.

 

Scott, did that paperwork I faxed you not show that? I'm sorry if it didnt. Also what combo spring and weights are you running now? Bubba

 

the x-mark on the clutch must meet the x on the clutch cover (very important).only 1 g or less out of balance on the clutch at what 6500-7000 rpm or + can be a lot more pounds that you can think of...
get the clutch re-balanced by a pro,it is very cheap and don't take too much and most important for longer engine's crank bearing and form...

 

First of all let me thank Rick Ritter from RCR who does great work and has provided me on many occasions with the necessary information like this Primary Clutch question. I have again contacted Rick and got to the bottom of this dilemma. For all who want to know the X marks on the outside cover, the spider, the outside moveable sheeve half, and the inside fixed sheeve half (the mark is on the back of sheeve towards the engine) should always be lined up. Thanks for the help Rick and thanks to all who responded. This factory mistake took three rebuilds of my engine in less than 40 total hours since new not to mention a crank rebuild and new bearings. Leave it to say I'll never buy another Polaris.

 

Well I hate it that you feel that way to an entire company due to the human error of probably one person. The question I have for you is who rebuilt it the first time? This is exactly the reason I buy OEM service manuals and have ALL the right knowledge. I hate it that this happened to you, but it is exactly just a mistake. I guess it messed up out of the original 6 months warranty.Bummer. Sorry man,Bubba

 

If you were to grab the primary clutch drive system should you have any slop (few 0.001's) up and down or right to left? I have a little bit of play - what does that mean - will i have to replace something or is that a normal condition. About 2 years ago i had all the bearings replaced and rod in the bottom end. Thanks for the info.
hunt

 

Well, considering that you run it pretty hard, a little crank play will be normal. Keeping a good primary clutch on it will prolong bearing life. Alot of people will tell you that if you race them, change the bearings once a year. I say no way! As long as noise and play is not an issue, go with it. When you tear off the top end, check the side play on the rod big end bearing. It should be no more than .036 MAXIMUM. If it is, time for a rod re-do. It really doesnt take long to split the cases and put in bearings, especially if the injection and such has been removed. I really like the fact of not having the tranny gears to deal with on these. Bubba