I got the head shaved for 92 octane, light trail port, swaintech coated weisco piston, RCR midrange pipe, MTQ silencer, oil injector block off kit, new throttle cable, RCR airbox mod, and uni filter. All in all it wasn't to bad of a job. I took my time and checked and rechecked everything I did as I put it together. I have put 2 1/2 hours on the breakin so far and it seems to be going well ( its still running). I kept the stock 34 mm carb ( ran out of $$$) and I started out with a 310 for the main and the needle clip one below center to raise it. The first hour was ten minute runs 1/4 throttle or so varying the rpm and then letting the engine cool completely between runs. I also checked the TQ on the cylinder and head bolts after the first run and cool down, and then checked them at 1 hour and 2 hours and they never did move. At 2 hours I was satisified all was going well and put all the plastic and rack back on. Now I have just a few questions. When I was checking TQ I also pulled the plug to see how it was looking ( I want it rich right now), it was a medium to dark tan color each time I pulled it. Now I no I'm not coming on to the main jet at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle so do you think that I should go one slot lower on the needle to richen it up or just let it alone until I start to open it up? When running at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle if I even touch the choke it starts to sputter so I really don't feel it is running to lean in that area but I'm just being cautious.

 

Something else I learned in this process was that the oil injector pump is lubed by the counter balance oil. This is important why? Well for the last year I have been having problems with my counter balance oil getting contaminated. I would drain and flush it three or four times until it was clean and then a month later it would start getting cloudy again. I was thinking it was the water pump seal but there was never any leakage from the weep hole. So now I'm thinking that it was getting water in through the injector pump and never knew it.

 

I kind of have close to the same set-up as you, but I am running a 38 TMX. It sounds maybe like you should go back to the middle position on the needle. If you are flipping the choke and not even half choke, I would say it is rich. With my mods I had to stay in the middle of the needle, but definately keep an eye on your plug and you will be ok.

 

I was thinking that since it would start to sputter as soon as I touched the choke that it was fine as far as not running lean , it was just the tan plug that made me question it. I would rather it be more on the brown side right now. But since all I'm doing is varying between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle its probably fine until I can do some serious jetting checks. Just being cautious but I can't wait to open this baby up.

 

I had a problem similar to yours in that my water seal went out. I didn't know this because supposedly the weep hole was plugged. It didn't look plugged to me when the dealer took it off. Anyway it blew the oil seal and thus got water in my c/b oil and locked up my counterbalancer bearing thus basically needing a new bottom and top end. Always check your weep hole. It doesn't make matters any better that it is really hard to find and check. I hope it runs good. Rick is supposed to be sending me my carb bore back today and I will putting mine back together also. See ya.

 

I just got back from another 30 min ride, thats 3 hours on the break in now. It will be interesting to see if I get the conamination back. I really don't think I wil because I have never had leakage from the weephole or any mysterious puddles on the floor. I sealed the blanking plate for the injector pump real good. Your right that it doesn't help that you almost have to stand on your head to see the weep hole.