I can't find any reference for an oil filter for the 650 in the owner's manual. I also can't find one in the accessory catalog. I'm sure it is the same one that works for the Kawasaki Prairie 650. Can anyone help me with a cross-reference, or the Kawasaki filter number?

Also, the owner's manual says to use motor oil that is API certified SF or SG or something like that. It says nothing about using motorcycle oil or worrying about wet clutches or anything like that. Is there any reason that I wouldn't want to use an automotive oil?

I don't mean to drag up an old topic, but might there be an advantage to an automotive oil since it has friction modifiers and additives that might reduce wear better than a motorcycle oil with the friction modifiers?

Nowhere in the Cat manual does it say you can't use automotive oils. It just says the recommended API rating and the following weights: 5w30, 10w40, and 20w50. Is there a problem with 10w30?

Just some rambling questions. Any opinions or facts would be appreciated. I'm just starting to think about the oil change after break-in.

 

DanW
The Kawie P650 doesn't call for 10w30 either, so don't use that weight.
Both www.denniskirk.com & rockymountainatv carry the oil filters for the Kawie 650/700 which is the oil filter that you need.
Automotive oils are not designed for the higher RPM's that motorcycle/ATV engines are capable of producing, I would stick with the correct API & a motorcycle engine oil. Change all of your oils at the 10 hour mark, very important, including both front/rear dif's along with the Engine oil. I don't have my Cat 650 yet, what does your owners manual call for in oil for the front dif?
(On the Prairie 650/700's it was regular m/c engine oil for the front dif., if the Cat is the same, then that is what you need to use)
Wait for at least 500 miles, you really want your VTwin engine broken in, & switch over to 100% Synthenic m/c engine oil. Doesn't matter what brand you go with, just be sure that it has the correct API codes & the weight viscosity & it is for m/c engines. Once you start using the 100% oils, you should NEVER go back to regular m/c oils again.

 

Dan, I changed the oil & filter on my 650 at the 10 hour mark, used a Prarie 650 filter (its identical) and Artic cat 10W40 oil on my first oil change, and after I put a few hundred miles on it, will go the synthetic route as Bearcat mentioned...

When you change your filter & oil for that matter, take the skid plate off, and, put a towel on top of the frame crossmember right under the filter - It will prevent oil from the filter draining into the frame and making a mess.

 

The owners manual calls for SAE 80w90 hypoid oil in the front and rear diffs.

Thanks for the info. I've got a Kawasaki dealer near by, so I'll hit them up for a filter or two. DD650, I did the same change sequence on my 375. I made my first change on it at 50 miles and went to AC 10w40. At 300 miles, I went to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w40, and then at 600 went to AC synthetic with the oil change kit.

I'm going to do the same with the 650, but the first change will also be at 10 hours.

 

Fram PH6017 oil filter..... this is what I use on my Kawasaki 650..there are several others that will fit ... look for... Nyroc ... in the kawasaki room he has a knowledge base on his site that will help you. lots of good stuff about the 650 engine

 

well ON MY 500 I used to put in 0W40 SYNTHETIC and in my new 65LE i will do the same the 0w will be thin enough for winter and the 40 weight oil viscpsity will protect the motor better then a thirty weight oil any day as the oil warms up it reaches its 40 weight viscosity I USE THE SAME TYPE OF OIL IN ARE JOHN DEERE TRACTORS AT WORK MAY BE EXPENCIVE BUT i think my bike is worth it and the oils exceed manufacturs reccommendation to bad we get ares in barrels at the shop. IT,S ok I get a discount