About two weeks ago I bought a new 650 MRP. I have a few "is this normal" questions.

1. When I'm in 2wd high and I slowly roll on the throttle, it seems to start rolling then I hear a sound like when the 4wd activates then it seems to grab and pick up speed. "is this normal?"

2. When I'm just about to stop while going down hill using engine braking, it starts to brake, let go, brake, let go action. Almost like if you were driving a stick shift in first and forget to put the clutch in.
The engine braking seems to work fine when slowing from a fast pace, it's just when I'm about to stop."is this normal?"

3. When cold, I can't start it without using the throttle, with or without the choke. Once it is started and I don't have to keep reving it, it runs fine. I'm concerned because the owners manual says not to use the throttle to start it. "is this normal?"

I now have 2mi on it. Thanks for any input.

I've been watching this site for a couple of months. "Great site"

 

1. Yes. You'll hear the 4wd work, and it usually has to be moving to engage.
2. Sounds like the belt is loose. Don't be alarmed pretty much everyone else was delivered with a loose belt, including me. You need to remove a shim to tighten it up.
3. I found that because of the check valve in the fuel tank vent (it's located by the taillight), it prevents gas tank pressure from being vented. If it doesn't vent, it forces gas past the carb floats and floods the engine. If you don't remove the check valve, then you should always park with the fuel turned off, and before you turn it on again, loosen the gas cap to relieve pressure.

I find now full choke to start it, and then back it off over the first minute. It doens't need much choke. But, if you don't remove the check valve (or vent the tank) before turning on the gas, the choke circuit runs super rich, and it tends to blubber and stall a bunch when starting it.

 

All of your questions are NORMAL!

1. The noise you hear when you start rolling is some type of servo in the transmission engaging so that you get full power. untill you hear it your basically running under full power. Mine has done it since new and after 300 miles still does.

2. I think it is the nature of the beast. I have adjusted the tranny and installed black secondary spring and under the "right circumstances" it will replicat your condition.

3. Another nature of the beast thing. you will notice come summer you will still need to give it a "shot" of throttle to start it. and turning off the fuel never seemed to make a difference for me. (had it since October so lots of time to try)

Hope this eases your mind a little.

-Mike

 

Range Rover and Trailblazer,

Thanks for responding, I also spoke to the dealer that I bought it from. They said to bring it back and they will check it. I guess I'm very picky when I spend this kind of money. I know when I bought the Cat, I had been reading all the issues with the 650 and told the dealer about them. The dealer checked the belt shims and made the shim adjustments and realigned the fromt end before I picked up the Cat. When I picked it up, the belt would squeal when at idle. The dealer then lowered the idle by turning the **** hanging from the right side of the engine. The squeal went away. He said the belt will stop squealing when the belt breaks in. Maybe the starting and engine braking problem is because of the low idle? He said the belt is perfectly set, that you want it a little tight. Is the dealer right? or should I start to worry. They are real nice at the dealer, I don't think they are crooked.

 

If a slight squeel in gear @ idle some of the time it's perfect, if it squeels all the time belt might be just a bit tight but should be ok.

 

Greencat,
Thanks for the info, thats what the dealer said. Just wanted a second opinion. THANKS...

 

redmtn,
Heres a tip to help it start a little easier. Turn the air/fuel mixture screws out a half a turn on each carb. This should help a little. The only real way to cure the problem is to get the new CDI when it comes out. Currently your stock CDI, along with killing your ignition timing, is required to read three rotations of the crank before it will start.

 

I can't seem to get all your names right so I won't try any more. Anyway, I will see what the dealer has to say. I don't want to start messing things up. I don't think it's a real problem. Does anyone know if it is bad to use the throttle to start the engine? If I don't, it won't start. Thanks for all your help.

 

no i cant see why it would be BAD, i think they say this because instead of chokes, the carbs have enricheners, and opening the choke reduces there effectiveness, atleast this is what i have read on here before

 

Don't read the forums if it makes you hear every little noise or makes you paranoid. Go and ride the machine. If you are having fun, its working as it should. That is a very tough and reliable machine you have. Go enjoy it. The one downside of forums is that it makes you look for problems that might not be there.