Just did my first oil change. Have a few?
#1
Hello all I just did my first oil change on my 500 at about 80 miles. I have some hard work coming for my quad and a long ride also. So my ? is I changed my oil and it was a metallic color Like a blackish gray now I know for brake in You are going to get shavings but I am just paranoid. Also has anyone had to have there valves adjusted on the 500. Its like at idle it will make a ticking sound but when i hit the gas it goes away anythoughts. I really dont want the dealer to mess with it it runs great. You know if it is not broke dont fix it. Any Thoughts would really help, RIDE ON ALL AND LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]
#2
Cruiser,
I changed the oil on my 500 TRV at 92 miles and had the same black, metallic oil you describe. I went ahead and used the Arctic Cat Oil Change Kit which is supplied with 0w-40 synthetic oil. I have put another 40 miles or so on it since then and the oil looks much, much cleaner this time around. I will changle it again at the 200 mile mark and then every 200-500 miles thereafter.
I saw a post about valve adjustment several weeks ago but not sure where. The consensus seemed to be that the valves rarely need adjustment. If they ever do need adjustment you will know because the engine will become very hard to start. If that happens, probably a good idea to get the valves checked. But, as long as no trouble starting then nothing to worry about. Like you say, IF IT AINT BROKE, DON'T FIX IT.
I changed the oil on my 500 TRV at 92 miles and had the same black, metallic oil you describe. I went ahead and used the Arctic Cat Oil Change Kit which is supplied with 0w-40 synthetic oil. I have put another 40 miles or so on it since then and the oil looks much, much cleaner this time around. I will changle it again at the 200 mile mark and then every 200-500 miles thereafter.
I saw a post about valve adjustment several weeks ago but not sure where. The consensus seemed to be that the valves rarely need adjustment. If they ever do need adjustment you will know because the engine will become very hard to start. If that happens, probably a good idea to get the valves checked. But, as long as no trouble starting then nothing to worry about. Like you say, IF IT AINT BROKE, DON'T FIX IT.
#4
Ricerocket,
what leads you to think there was water in the oil? If the oil was frothy, then that would be in indication that there was water in it. Color alone would not indicate water in the oil. I saved my drained oil for later disposal and there is no indication whatsoever of water in it - i.e., water would have seperated and be showing on the bottom of the jug but there is no indication of that.
???
what leads you to think there was water in the oil? If the oil was frothy, then that would be in indication that there was water in it. Color alone would not indicate water in the oil. I saved my drained oil for later disposal and there is no indication whatsoever of water in it - i.e., water would have seperated and be showing on the bottom of the jug but there is no indication of that.
???
#5
I have a Suzuki Eiger, and the valve train is almost identical to your AC. You definitely should at least CHECK the valve clearances at your first service. There should be NO CLICKING NOISE from your valves when properly adjusted. If they make noise, they are out of adjustment, or your engine is WAY too hot. There is normally a small film of oil between the lifter and valve that keeps the top of the valve from wearing out, and if that gap is too big, or the oil is gone, there will be noise from 'tappet impact'. That's not good. At least check it, as improperly adjusted valves can lead to performance loss, poor runability, valve damage, and at worst, a burned valve/cracked head. Just like in a car.
Check it out!!
Check it out!!
#6
Ticking sound from the valve area? Yes, get your dealer to inspect and make necessary correction.
When we got our dealer to service our AC 500i at 129 miles, he listened to its engine. Sounded great. Since it sounded great, my dealer recommended it would be "a waste of dollars" to inspect the values. He suggested they inspect the valves at the 500 mile mark. One of those, "if it sounds ok then don't waste time inspecting it!!!" ideas. In your case, I'd get them to listen to your engine's ticking, then allow them to go the next step.
Hope this helps...
.
#7
yup my dealer suggested to bring it back to them at the 500 mile mark to get the valves checked out. When I called and asked how much it would cost I decided to do it myself. I wasnt going to pay 150 bucks for them to do what I could do myself.
But if you not mechanically inclined, bring it in for sure. The 150 now is allot cheaper then having to get valve work done in the future
But if you not mechanically inclined, bring it in for sure. The 150 now is allot cheaper then having to get valve work done in the future
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#8
Thanks all for the replys. I can ajust the valves myself I have done it on cars with roller rockers My 68 mustang and my brothers 68 Camaro. But what is involved in getting to them valves what do I have to remove to get at them I hope not the gas tank. What do I have to remove off the atv to get at the top of the engine easy, I mean it is a ticking sound at idle and when I hit on the gas it goes away.
#9
In order to access the cylinder head you must remove the two side panels, the air box lid, and the fuel tank. Valve adjustment is not recommended until you reach 500 miles on the machine. The ticking sound you hear is probably from the exhaust side, nothing to worry about. Just ride and enjoy.
#10
Arctic375, Yea the sound I am hearing is from the exhaust side, I opened the small covers and looked at them they seem to be ok no slop at all clearance is ok so I guess it is normal, thanks for the reply


