Well I did it again, Tore another out board front CV boot on my 99 300 4by4...I have the oxlite guards installed but that outer boot still gets hit.Looks like time to modify it. Anyone have experience changing these boots?Any special tools needed? I have had the dealer replace 2 so far to the tune of $300 bucks and had enough of those prices.Anybody have a good source for the replacement kit?
By the way I have just installed ITP type 4s with 589s......what a difference!!

 

Changing boots is plain old mechanicing and tools. The instructions that come with the boot kit walk you through it. I stopped my boot problems by getting the deluxe metal guards for the rear (Pn# 0436-151 at $32.70) and the deluxe guards for the front (Pn# 0436-304 at $76.38) that wrap around the axle and boot. No problems since either. They are worth the money. The boot kits are about $30.00 from AC and most dealers stock them. probably won't find them much cheaper and not quicker anywhere else. So far on my 400 the gaurds you have have worked, but I really like the wrap around guards.

 

The easiest way to replace just the outer cv boot:
I would recommend changing the outer cv boot from the inner cv joint side. That's because on most vehicles the only way to get the cv joint off the shaft is to hit it off with a hammer. Then you run the risk of damaging the outer cv joint. The inner cv joint can be removed without hitting anything. All you have to do is remove "c" clips. The only way to remove the outer cv joint is to hit it off the shaft with a hammer. The problem with this is that you may damage the joint in the process so I would only recommend this if your replacing the cv joint anyway. If you are not replacing the outer cv joint then the safest thing to do is put it on from the inner cv joint side. The inner cv joint is very simple to remove. First you'll want to remove the clamps from the boot (you'll want to buy the additional clamp kit for $2). Being careful not to puncture the boot you can pry up on the tabs that hold the band in place or just cut by putting a screwdriver under them and prying up to give you enough room to get the metal snips under them. Once the boot is free slide it back toward the outer cv joint to expose the inner components. You'll find a large retaining clip that goes around the inside of the joint just above the ball tracks. Remove the clip by getting behind it with a small screwdriver. Once this clip is removed the inner cage, race, *****, & shaft will come out all together (wrap your hand around this to prevent the ***** from falling out all over the place). You'll find a retaining clip on the back of the shaft, remove this with retaining clip pliers or a large screw driver to spread the clip open. Once this is removed you'll be able to remove the cage, race, & ***** all together at one time. No your ready to install it on your new half shaft. Make sure the boot goes on first. Then place the cage, race, & ***** on the shaft making sure that the tapered side of the cage and race are facing toward the outer cv joint. Install the clip to hold it onto the shaft. Then fill the inner cv joint housing with grease and place it over the cage, race, & *****. Install the large clip. Now pull the boot down and install the large clamp. Then take a screw driver and place it in between the small part of the boot and the shaft and push the inner cv joint in all the way until it bottoms out. Then pull it back halfway (or to the mid range of the inner cv joint) and remove the screw driver and install the small clamp. Your now ready to install the axle back in the vehicle. If you have any questions PM me and I'll be glad to help.
Danny
"thecvman"

 

Thanx for the input..from.."Bear" an the "CVman". I see the boot kits on e-bay for 15 bucks?? and I will call the cat dealer and get a quote.I will most likely buy from Arctic cat to avoid any wrong part issues....and Bear says there is an instruction kit also.....cant hurt ..time to learn .....my mid 40s head needs a little cobweb removal......

 

Mrmom, If my upper 50s head can deal with it so can yours.

 

If my upper 50s head can deal with it so can yours.



-------------------------
Bear 45/70


I still feel youthfull,but I must admit mid 40s isnt mid 20s...hahaha...any way isnt it not the age? just the mileage?

 

In your mid 20s you still heal fast. Your just start the long downhill to the "don't break your body" life style. I unfortunately hit a deer on a motorcycle at 47. Never have healed up properly.

 

Bear , I see you have a new 400I....what is your honest assesment.....Is that enough engine to move that machine around with any authority?? Is the 500 worth the extra $$$$$. I had concidered picking up another machine. I like the ground clearance on these new models.Are they stable on mountainous terrain?Whats your opinion of the cat auto. I have had experience with the Polaris auto and think the engine RPM is quite high vs the manual cat and Honda transmissions I have had experience with.

 

mrmom103ny; My 400 is the smallest engined ute that is in the groups I run in usually. Speed wise it hits 57 against the rev limiter but the GPS says 54 mph. However I keep up well enough on the logging roads, but a 660s or even a 500s with a long enough straight will slowly pull away. I catch them again when it gets windy. The 400 will lift the front tires on pavement is 1st high range, in low range second gear it will carry them several lengths, so power is not lacking. A 500 auto sure won't accerate away from it, just a higher top speed (I would say 4 mph at most) and how often do you really spend flat out in high gear? As to the rock crawling, trail riding and the technical stuff it goes everywhere the bigger engined machines do and easier in some cases. The limit is me and the tires, me will get better and all the tires need is bigger lugs. Hill climbing, well it has gone over every hill that anybody else has. I am very happy with it. I feel the 400 is stabler than my 250 is, maybe the greater width. I like the cat auto alot and was gonna get one. Have a buddy with one and I liked it a bunch. However the dealer gave me such a good deal on the manual that I couldn't pass on it. Shifts just like the 250 did so no adjustment there. I never could get the 400 auto against the rev limiter at max speed like I can the manual. The difference is only 2 or 3 mph at most. I really like the locker, it has unstuck me twice in the first 400 miles, towed only once out of a jeep deeped ice and snow covered mud hole and nobody else opted to try it. My assessment is no the 500 isn't worth the extra money. I had enough in my pocket to buy a 500 auto and opted for a 400 auto untill he mentioned the manual and it's price. BTW, the 400 is AC's bestseller. Must be a reason.

 

Bear thanx for the breakdown.......Ihave heard great things about the 400....you substatiate what I have heard. Hard to believe a 376cc??(havent checked this yet)air cooled would run that well.I have a 450es Honda also which underwhelms me ....which is why I inquired on the 400. I wanted to make sure the 400 had some grunt. I prefer the air cooled engines for the simplicity and no radiator issues to deal with.....we ride in severe terrain which has been proven to be rough on radiators and cv boots.