I have a few problems with my 98 AC 300 4x4 and I am curious if anyone with this machine has found any solutions for these problems.

1) I have always had problems not being able to get my Arctic Cat back into Neutral. The machine will die while in gear and then I will try to get back into Neutral by pressing the shifting lever. Often I need to rock the machine front to back and keep pressing the shifting lever to get it into Neutral. The other day while out on a frozen lake with the tranny in SuperLow I couldn't rock it enough to get back into neutral. I have anso become stuck in the swamp when the machine died in gear and couldn't rock it enough to get it into neutral then start it back up. What a pain! I wish you could start the thing in gear. Does this sound like a Linkage issue?

2) My low idle has always been a problem. I just had the carb cleaned out and the thing still won't idle real smooth. It either dies or runs at too high a RPM. I have played with the idle adjustment screw that you can get to right under the seat and that has helped so I can keep it running but what other things should I look into?

Thanks for any ideas.

 

Ok, To answer your questions in order;

1. This is fairly normal for these machines and I even up graded my 2001 250 (same tranny) to the new style mechanical rod linkage and it still does it. So no it is not a linkage problem and if you shift into uetral before the motor stops it is not a problem. Fixing #2 problem will solve #1.

2. Keep turning the "Idle Speed" adjuster on your carb. Keep turning it clockwise to increase idle speed. Now the motor won't die and shifting into neutral is easier with the motor running. It can be touchy and you need to keep playing with it until you get it right. If that doesn't work, you can adjust the throttle cable to increase the idle speed. I had to do this when I got my 250 as the idle speed adjuster was frozen. I fixed it at the carb rebuild the next spring.

 

You can start unit in gear with the pull rope, in case you have to sometime. Have you owned since new and has this just been getting worse? If unit is flooding out at idle I would suggest checking the slide needle and the jet tube for wear. The tube will show the most wear. When these wear the needle won't shut fuel in the main circuit off at idle and over fuels engine at idle.

 

Thanks for the replies. I agree that fixing the idle would help and the pull start is something I need to remember. I made an adjustment to the shifting lever today as well so maybe it will go into neutral a little easier now.

I picked it up with a couple hundred miles on it and have had it since 98. The engine never has idled all that well. I use it to plow my driveway and as it warms up it wants to die when I go to shift from Forward to Reverse and I have to feather the gas quite a bit to keep it alive.

One thing I have noticed is when it idles at a higher RPM it really is hard to get into neutral. I need to run it at half choke to keep the engine idling just to keep it from dying. When I need to shift into neutral I have to slow down the RPMs by cutting some choke then it will go into neutral.

Maybe a trip to a good mechanic is in order.

 

If you are running at half choke to keep it running then the engine is too lean and you need to try adjusting the pilot air screw. Idle to high will cause it not to shift easy as the clutch is putting pressure on the gears, hence the linkage. Pretty much like when the motor is not running and the pressure is being applied against the gears from the drive train side.

 

Bear4570,

What manual or book would you recommend me getting to make the changes to the carb? I did some searching and found: "Official Arctic Cat Factory Service Manual" on repairmanuals dot com. Would that be my best bet?

I think it is a good idea for me to learn how to fix the carb myself but don't know how to do it. Sad to say I am an engine novice.

 

I have found over the years, as a professional and shade tree mechanic that the factory manuals work best, they usually have info the aftermarkets manuals don't. At least that's what I have done, with all my toys, cars, trucks, boats and other major items. I did buy my Cat manuals from my dealer, but if it is the "Official Arctic Cat Factory Service Manual", it should be good.

It always pays to maintain your own stuff, then you know right where the mechanic is and exactly what he did.

 

Bear 45/70 is right about learning to repair your own ride yourself. I wish more of my riding buddys whould learn to do this. As a full time ASE Master Tech. I have spoiled them over the years. Its allways easier for me to just jump in and fix a problem myself than to have them do it,and thats my fault. Now they have got to where they count on me to get their equipment ready and keep it running for them. Ive really done them a disservice. But I am slowly showing them how to do things themselves.
As to your lean at idel problem, try running your pilot air screw about 3.5 to 4 turns out from bottom. Be sure that when you bottem it out to do it very gently. Its unhandy and unfortunate that on this machine that you have to partaly remove the carb to do this.

 

Volvoman, I know what you mean about easier to do it yourself that teach the poor guy how to do it. But I found in the long run it is better to take the time to teach now, than 10 years down the road I'm still changing their plugs for them. I also understand the slowly part too. Sometimes I wonder how they remember to breath.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]