I bought a 05 manual back in the summer, have put around 1500 miles on it so far. First thing I would do to it is seal the air box cover (Snorkle) with RTV and maybe reinforce the airbox tabs. At the very least check the airbox after every ride. Second, put some decent tires on it, the OEM tires are too soft and if you do any rough riding, will come off the beads. Third, seal the 2wd/4wd servo (on the front dif) with RTV. The only mods I have did to mine are mud lite tires and a winch.

 

The Bear said: "The change requires a motor pull..."

Arrrgh! Well, that means I live with a high range reverse. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img] This means never getting into a "I gotta back uphill to get outa here" situation. I was hoping for a simple 'screwdriver adjustment' (well, not quite, but you know what I mean) to fix this dilemma.

 

There have been a few guys that have so many mods to their engine I could not list them all that I have ridden with. Some almost need to tow a trailer full of fuel to ride as far as we do sometimes. The power that they gain is not noticed as they still can't go places I can and I can't (or won't) go places they do. But in the end, they spent more $ on mods and fuel than I did. With the ever rising price of fuel that is important.

Also, there have been a few places that I have ran across on my machine that I have backed into. To test the hole out, since I know I can go better forward. I mostly drive through trails and mudholes in 2wheel drive. Thay way, if you get into trouble you can try 4 wheel and get out (4 wheels in reverse ot forward).

SJ

 

Swampy is right. Always use 2 wheel drive, then when you get stuck, 4 wheel will get you out and even if that doesn't work the locker will for sure get you out. The only time I ever got stuck with my 400 was ignoring this rule and was using 4X4 and was so stuck the locker didn't help and needed to back out and of course the high range reverse didn't have the stones for it. Only took a little pull to get it moving, but low range reverse would have justed backed out.

 

I wholeheartedly agree on the use of 2WD. In fact, I usually have to remember to put mine in 4WD once in a while just to keep the front diff lubed. And after finding out about the "lack of stones" in reverse in the usual true life experience mode, I do my darndest to never find myself in a position where I can't back out. But (and there's always a "but"), you can't always know what's around that next bend when you're going downhill on a rut of a road cut into the side of a mountain or hillside. If there's not enough room to turn around, backing is just about the only way out - and that's when a low range reverse would be great.

I've learned if it doesn't appear to be too far "down and around", I'll walk it first just to be sure. As in life in general though, there are NO guarantees...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

The other trick I like to use instead of backing out is going forward by using the warn winch and a small sand anchor. You put the anchor a ways out in front and hook the winch to it for the little extra you need to get moving. Works especially well when there are no trees to be found or they are too far to reach with the cable and you are by yourself.

Low range reverse would be nice for towing though. When I have been stuck the worst is with a trailer full of gear behind me and I can't back up. I end up unhitching the trailer and driving through and using the winch to pull the trailer through. Makes for a whole heap of trouble.

SJ

 

I'll have to get a sand anchor, even though we don't have much sand. They do work in dirt and gravel. But thanks for the idea, Swampy. Yeah, I've had problems with the backing the trailer thing with wood on the trailer and when using the 400 to launch the boats.

 

is this change also doable on an eiger,05', is it very involved

 

If it is the same engine and trans and I believe it is, then yes it is doable. And yes it is involved

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Originally posted by: MrTommy
So Bear, do you know how you're going do that mod for changing the high reverse to low reverse? That is my only complaint about our stock 400's. I don't know what they were thinking...
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The change requires a motor pull and case spit to actually install some custom made gears. But then I will have a low range reverse and I won't have any complaints about the 400 then. I still can't believe Suzuki put a high range reverse in the damn things. Speed in reverse is very dangerous, where as major grunt power is useful. Very stupid engineering on their part.