The main jet has no effect on fuel mixture at idle. How much pressure are you using to blow our passages? There are warnings about using high pressure air to clear passages, anymore than 35psi is a no no. I like to use WD-40 with the long red nozzle attached. Then you can see if the passage is clear because of the fluid.

Back to the main jet, my '05 Service Manual says the main jets should be 120 front and 115 rear. Again unless something is really screwed up (idle speed set super high) the mains jets only effect 1/3 throttle and up. The slow jet is suppose to be a 40. The pilot or idle screw is 2 1/2 turns. Float level should be 3-5mm or 0.12-0.20 inches. I would think that a recheck to make sure these numbers and measurements are correct then take it to your dealer.

 

Thanks,
I used 40 psi. It does not seem to have damaged anything because the plug is still the same color as before this endeavor and it runs same. Pilot screw is 1.5 to 2.5 turns out. Trouble is I can't tell which is right because it doesn't the pilot screw has absolutely no effect on how it running at this time. Is the Pilot Screw adjusting fuel flow or air flow through the idle circuit? I have been assuming it restricts fuel so fewer the turns out the leaner the idle mix. Is that correct on the V2? Where is the idle jet? I suppose it's one of the two long brass posts next to the main?
I need a shop manual for this thing!!

I thank you for your advice. It helps me a lot.
Regards,

Alan

 

40 is close enough to 35 psi. But I've seen moron use 120psi and you cn blow out restrictors and plugs that way. Pilot screw is controlling fuel, so in is leaner. In the manual they warn about running the ilde screw all the way in and leaving it that way as if will be too lean at idle. I was told the slow jet is what you run above idle untill the main jets start flowing fuel. which actually makes it a mid-range jet.

 

Have you checked your float? I have seen floats with hairline cracks fill will gas and cause problems. Other than that it sounds like your carb has issues, a complete rebuild might cure it. Have you changed to a new plug? could air flow to the carb be restricted? This will cause a rich condition too. I think my 06 v2 uses a cr7e plug

 

Yes, cr7e is the plug number for the V2. Also, my F/A screws are both out 3 1/2 turns. Have you removed the drain screws, let the carbs drain, and put the screws back in? I know ive dumped seafoam into my carbs through the air box, with very good cleaning results. I would mabey try both of these ideas. But you have to pour the sea foam very slowly, or it will stall out, and it will smoke for a minute from the exaust, but that is normal.

 

This would be unlikely, but could it be a flaw in the pilot jet in the affected carb? Maybe wrong size jet from the factory, or just a defective jet?

 

Do yourself a favor, DO NOT listen to BEAR. his experience is related to 400cc and lower motors.

The choke on the Kawi V2 motor appies to both cylinders. Thier is a splitter that down by the carbs that makes the single choke apply to both carbs. A common problem with the AC/Kawi V2 is a frozen choke on one or both carbs. If this machine is still under warantee, take it back to your dealer. If not remove the choke cable from both carbs and the handlebar and lubricate the whole think, expecially the splitter down by the carbs. Use silicone or as some dealers do they soak it in antifreeze.


Again please disregard all input from BEAR, he will do nothing but mess you up.

 

Well i may not be the smartest guy here. but your spending all this time on your carb. well as an after thought. are you getting spark? just replacing the plug might not fix it. check the NEW plug for spark.

as not getting spart would mean that any and all adjustments to the carb will go unnoticed. just my thought on the whole thing. these carbs are rather well made. so i'm betting it's a spark problem. but afterall i've only been working on atv's for 15 years.

HR

 

Everyone would do themselves a favor and ignore anything Dummydog says. I was a professional mechanic for over 35 yeas and have dealt with everthing from Briggs and Stratton 1 lungers to 1000+ horsepower race motor. I raced and mechaniced my own cars and boats and won. So you are the only moron on here that bad mouth someone that's trying to help, but all you do is run your mouth and help no one. You were asking for help a while back and when advise was given you suddenly "knew" so much that you could tell them they didn't know what they were talking about. If you don't stop this crap I will put you sorry butt in a sling.

 

The reason I didn't suspect spark is he says it runs fine at higher rpms.