Arctic Cat Discussions about Arctic Cat ATVs.

Battery Problem

Old Mar 9, 2007 | 11:25 PM
  #1  
toehanus's Avatar
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Default Battery Problem

Okay, I went out to ride the atv today and the stupid battery is dead again. I bought the atv new in August. This is battery #2. It was purchased in November. I've been riding about 3-4 times a week for the past 3 weeks, so it hasn't been sitting around. Is it possible that my winch is putting a slow drain on the battery? Any other suggestions? Thanks.

toe
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 12:22 AM
  #2  
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In the March 2007 edition of ATV magazine it states "Warn Industries Inc. recalls 8 post ATV winch kits due to overheating". It goes on saying "Warn ATV & utility vehicle winch kits that can continue to pull current when in the "off" position, which can cause overheating & pose a fire hazzard".

Sounds like this is your answer. Its on page 12.

Springer
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:30 AM
  #3  
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I just looked at the Warn website and that recall doesn't apply to my winch. The recall is for the 8 post contactors. I have the 4 post contactor. How would you test for something drawing power constantly?

toe
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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Use an amp meter with the key off and check across the battery (first). There will be a current draw if you've got a problem. Remember there is a clock in the head unit and that will take a VERY SMALL amount of current so if you are drawing more than .01 amps you've got a problem. If there is no current draw then have the charging system checked. You can pull the fuses one by one when the bike is parked and check across the contacts for current draw. or just leave the fuse out and measure your battery status after a day or so (don't drive or start it). Once you've located the circuit use a wiring diagram and check current draws individually down that circuit until you find the problem. If you suspect the winch, disconnect the winch at the battery and see if the battery still discharges. If it's not the charging system, more than likely you've got a short, and since the discharge is so slow, it may be internal to some electrical part, perhaps a broken (or open faced) wire against a painted surface - something that doesn't have direct metal to metal contact. And don't you have a warranty? Let the dealer fix it. Sometimes new batteries are faulty, but two in a row are too remote to think about. Tail/brake lights work okay? Tail lights are a common area for faults. as are the brake light switches. Let us know what you find as the problem.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 04:21 PM
  #5  
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Default Battery Problem

Originally posted by: JimJa
Use an amp meter with the key off and check across the battery (first). There will be a current draw if you've got a problem. Remember there is a clock in the head unit and that will take a VERY SMALL amount of current so if you are drawing more than .01 amps you've got a problem. If there is no current draw then have the charging system checked. You can pull the fuses one by one when the bike is parked and check across the contacts for current draw. or just leave the fuse out and measure your battery status after a day or so (don't drive or start it). Once you've located the circuit use a wiring diagram and check current draws individually down that circuit until you find the problem. If you suspect the winch, disconnect the winch at the battery and see if the battery still discharges. If it's not the charging system, more than likely you've got a short, and since the discharge is so slow, it may be internal to some electrical part, perhaps a broken (or open faced) wire against a painted surface - something that doesn't have direct metal to metal contact. And don't you have a warranty? Let the dealer fix it. Sometimes new batteries are faulty, but two in a row are too remote to think about. Tail/brake lights work okay? Tail lights are a common area for faults. as are the brake light switches. Let us know what you find as the problem.

May I suggest an ammeter is used inline with the battery not across the battery.
Disconnect the battery and place the ammeter inline witht he lead and the post of the battery. Set meter to the highest reading and work the scale back to get a reading.

 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 05:22 PM
  #6  
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Thanks guys. It'll be several days before I get a chance to explore the problem. I'm heading to Florida and I've got to get some stuff ready for my classes before I head out. Thanks again!

toe
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 05:36 PM
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Tommy. You are correct. My bad. Won't do any good across the terminals. Needs to be in-line to detect current flow.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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Originally posted by: JimJa
Tommy. You are correct. My bad. Won't do any good across the terminals. Needs to be in-line to detect current flow.
No problem no need to appologize.. just re-edit that one sentence before it is read before the rest of this ..
all your logic is just what the doctor ordered. Could not to that.
Usually there is a fuse in the meter that will prevent any damage
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 11:35 AM
  #9  
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Thanks for all the advice guys. Fortunately, I didn't have to use it. It appears that I forgot everything from my computer work that I used to do. Always check the simplest thing! Well, I go out this morning to start tearing into everything and I decide to check the battery cables. I'm ashamed to admit that all my problems were being caused by a loose battery cable! DOH!!!! Talk about feeling stupid.

toe
 
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