HI
I have a 2001 300 4x4 Arctic Cat with a ripped front left outer boot. (exploring the skidder trails). Would anyone know the easyest way to replace it or know of an online website with step by step directions+photos. The repair kit's instructions say I have to remove the inner boot to do the outer, is there an easyer way?

thanks
0zzY

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 0zzY

HI

I have a 4x4 Arctic Cat with a ripped front left outer boot. (exploring the skidder trails). Would anyone know the easyest way to replace it or know of an online website with step by step directions+photos. The repair kit's instructions say I have to remove the inner boot to do the outer, is there an easyer way?



thanks

0zzY</end quote></div>


Nope, no easier way. Your will have to have a couple extra steel bands, you can get them from an automotive store - about $2.00 each, you will need 4 all together.
If you don't have a banding tool you will have to borrow one or buy one, unless you use the AC boot kit then you just have to clip them with a pair of needle nose pliars or some such. I prefer the automotive bands. You can find a banding tool on ebay for about $8.00 plus shipping that will also cut the excess band.

1) Remove the wheel
2) Take the brake calliber off - if you have disc brakes (two cap screws)
3) Disconnect the tie-rod (there is a cotter pin there too)
4) Remove the large nut holding the wheel housing onto the axle (there is a cotter pin there too)
5) Dicconnect the upper and lower ball joints and slide the wheel housing off the CV stem
* At this point the axle is free on the outside. - Don't let it just dangle as damage to the inner CV could result. (Per AC instructions)
6) Cut the bands on the inner boot and slide the boot back.
7) There is a large 'C' ring on inner CV joint that need to be removed - start it with a small screwdriver and grab it with needle nose pliars.
8) Slide the inner CV joint out of the housing
9) Remove the small 'C' clip from the axle
10) Slide the inner CV joint off the axle.
11 Cut the bands off the outer boot.
12) Slide both boots off the axle.
13) Install new boot and reverse the above steps.

OH - I FORGOT TO TELL YOU TO JACK THE WHEEL UP OFF THE GROUND FIRST (makes the above steps easier)

I hope I have not missed a step but if I did you probably will figure it out once you
start disassembling.

 

thanks for the info
I'll get some bands before I start.

 

Thanks again Buckeroo50

I have all the bands now. Can you expand on removing the ball joints (upper and lower) I took off the big hollow bolt/nut top and bottom - looks like a good place to put grease during assembly , but I also removed the bolt horizontally on the other side of the joint , should I spread that a bit then start prying it apart? Any special tools I need or tricks to save the rubber? It seems on there pretty tight , I guess the ball part stays in place , is there a splined bolt on the other end I,m trying to separate?


workin on it
0zzY

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 0zzY

Thanks again Buckeroo50



I have all the bands now. Can you expand on removing the ball joints (upper and lower) I took off the big hollow bolt/nut top and bottom - looks like a good place to put grease during assembly , but I also removed the bolt horizontally on the other side of the joint , should I spread that a bit then start prying it apart? Any special tools I need or tricks to save the rubber? It seems on there pretty tight , I guess the ball part stays in place , is there a splined bolt on the other end I,m trying to separate?





workin on it

0zzY</end quote></div>

Just wack the A-arm with a rubber hammer while holding the hub. It comes apart pretty hard sometimes. I guess you could spread the joint a little or spray some WD-40 in there.

 

I'll give it a try. I appreciate the advice.

thanks
0zzY

 

Once you have the outer part of the axle free you can get some wheel bearing seals (about $2.00 each). Pop the old seals out (inner and outer - different part number) from the wheel housing and you can repack the wheel bearings while you have everything apart. I almost think that the seals come in pairs, (two inner and two outer) so you could do the other front also.
If you get a spray can of lithium grease. You can stick the little red straw up in the rubber boots for the tie-rods, and upper and lower ball joint boots and zap some grease in there - not needed but doesn't hurt - helps to keep the water out.
I repacked all my wheel bearings this spring along with all new shock bushings. The rear shock bushings were starting to wear. I was going to replace the rubber shock bushings with brass ones, then drill and tap the top and bottom of the shocks and fit them with grease fittings, but I just used rubber ones. I may get ambitious and at least do the rear with brass bushings later on this summer, and if you drill a tiny hole in the sleeve it will grease the bolt too.