AC 650v Drive Belt Problems
#1
I recently purchased a 2004 AC 650v and today is really about the 3 or 4 time riding it and the drive belt started messing up. It ran like crap and bogged down. It just turned 1000 miles or so when it started doing this. Is this normal. I was told to get the upgraded belt?? The belt light kept coming on and blinking. Need a little help. Also I think it is an 04 where can I find that information? THANKS!
#2
your machine is programmed to do this at 1000mi. look for the belt reset procedures on here i know there out there some where. you might have to look under kawaski brute force belt reset procedure (it should be the same cause its the same motor) thats where i found it when i had my BF750. i would check the belt on it though because i tore through a belt after about 1400mi on my BF.
goos luck
goos luck
#3
I have an '06 V2. Given the current problems you are having with your drive belt here's what I suggest.
- Install a new belt. I've had no problems with the OEM belt (3,000 miles), but some like the Kawi's belt.
- Drive it for a 100 miles or so and reshim to tighten it up. Do a search on the AC forums and you'll find how to do this and the specs. In my view, once you shim, go on the tight side of the specs.. It will lengthen a little more and "seek itself" once shimmed.
- You should also consider...
-- New CVT springs. For normal use (assuming you are not racing or riding hard, and I mean HARD) I'd recommend red/black. It will allow engagement about 500 RPM higher. That means better torque at take-off, but also means less wear and tear on the belt.
-- New ECU. I installed a Dyna-Tec (sp?), about $200, prob cheaper on e-bay. That will eliminate the "limp home mode." It also removes the 6 degree spark retard at rest for slightly increased performance, and removes the back up interrupt.
The belt needs tweaking from the start and once you get it right it will last as long as any other. I've only done mine once and do not intend to do it again unless I note slippage. I don't know how long that will be. My dealer indicates he has a couple of ranchers with over 10K on their OEM belts.
Remember too, that reverse is "high," not "low" and it's easy to burn a belt if you are do heavy pulling in reverse. This is easy to do if you have a winch, backing up while using the winch as your hook-up.
- Install a new belt. I've had no problems with the OEM belt (3,000 miles), but some like the Kawi's belt.
- Drive it for a 100 miles or so and reshim to tighten it up. Do a search on the AC forums and you'll find how to do this and the specs. In my view, once you shim, go on the tight side of the specs.. It will lengthen a little more and "seek itself" once shimmed.
- You should also consider...
-- New CVT springs. For normal use (assuming you are not racing or riding hard, and I mean HARD) I'd recommend red/black. It will allow engagement about 500 RPM higher. That means better torque at take-off, but also means less wear and tear on the belt.
-- New ECU. I installed a Dyna-Tec (sp?), about $200, prob cheaper on e-bay. That will eliminate the "limp home mode." It also removes the 6 degree spark retard at rest for slightly increased performance, and removes the back up interrupt.
The belt needs tweaking from the start and once you get it right it will last as long as any other. I've only done mine once and do not intend to do it again unless I note slippage. I don't know how long that will be. My dealer indicates he has a couple of ranchers with over 10K on their OEM belts.
Remember too, that reverse is "high," not "low" and it's easy to burn a belt if you are do heavy pulling in reverse. This is easy to do if you have a winch, backing up while using the winch as your hook-up.
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