Anybody change a rear CV boot? After playing submarine with the 250 (no I didn't do it intentionally) I found grease all over the boot. I assumed the boot was either torn on punctured even I could find anything wrong. The thing that really suck is that it has rear guards and only 90 miles on it. After flushing the engine/tranny with kerosene, then flushing with oil I called two dealers. The 1st dealer told me it was a big job, which would take a couple of hours. The second dealer told me roughly an hour's worth of labor. Both dealers did say that a new CV boot is not covered under the warrantee. Since this my first IRS I'm not sure if this is something better left to real mechanics. As for the engine everything seems to be ok, although I have no plans to try to cross that particular spot again.

 

TG1-
I have not replaced a REAR cv boot, as my 500 has the ACT rear end, but I have replaced an inner front boot. If the rear is at all similar to replacing the front, you have nothing to worry about, it's really no big deal. Yes, it does take a little time to do everything right, but I think the 2 hour bit sounds a little far-fetched. I had forgot to put the 3 little bearings back in mine after I had it all put together again, then forgot again to put the inner large clamp on before I assembled it again, so I ended up tearing mine apart and putting it back together three different times just for the same boot. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] Wait wait wait, I did that on purpose really, was just practicing my time to change one-yeah, that's it! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Anyway, by the third time, it took less than 20 minutes to tear it all down, clean it out and re-fill with fresh grease, then assemble properly again. My guess is they charge you a minimum one-hour shop rate???

Basically, as my upper and lower ball joints were already broke, I just removed the lower spring bolt, then tied the spring/shock up out of the way to the front rack. After removing what was left of the old boot, I cleaned everything out very well, removing all the old grease and any debris, dust or dirt that was around the area. You will need a large pair of cir-clip pliars-the reversible kind, and a few metric wrenches. There is one large circlip holding the cv inside the main housing, then one more smaller one holding the cv knuckle assembly to the axle shaft. About the hardest part of the entire job was removing and installing the large circlip inside the housing. Mine was all bent out of shape though, so that had a lot to do with the difficulties, and I broke my pliars, so I had some odd-ball tools in a make-shift attempt (you know, like using a butter knife as a screwdriver). Since nothing is broke or bent on your's, I doubt you'll have any trouble at all.

My suggestion would to be look into fixing it yourself if you think you can. Not only will it save you money for labor, but you'll gain a better understanding of how the machine works, and the components it takes to make it go. Then, should something ever happen in the field, you will have a better idea of what, how serious it is, and what it will take to fix it. All part of the learning experience.

Best of Luck to ya, let us know how it works out.

Mike

 

Hey Cowboy,
You always seem to have the answer! Thanks for the help. Other than the CV boot everything else seems to be running just fine. Gotta admit I was a little scared when flushing the engine... Just part of 4 wheeling (bound to screw up once and a while). Is there a repair manual on the market for ACs. Seems like every other brand has one for each model. Maybe I just haven't seen one yet.
Another question: Would you change out the front diff gear oil? I was thinking it be a good idea. But then again there are no vent lines on the diff. Just looking for an honest second opinion.
Happy riding,
TG1[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Hey no problem man, just glad to help! Unfortunately the only manual that I know of is available through your dealer. I think the cost is around $30, or maybe $50-I don't remember now, but it is the one the dealer uses to repair your quad-so it shows you how to do everything, in detail with step by step pictures. I have the "supplement" manual for the AC 500 AUTO, it has been a big help in a few different things. You might run into a problem buying it though-I have heard of a few dealers who won't sell you the manual till after your warranty expires-basically they want to fix anything that breaks under warranty and not have to fix something you may have attempted at, but failed. I can understand their theory to a point, but at the same time, I still think if a guy wants the manual, they should get it regardless of warranty. You may get lucky, you may have to wait, I don't know but it's worth a look.

As for the diffs, how long was the machine under? I take it it died, as you are flushing the engine with kerosene? It is definately wise to at least check the diff. if nothing else, see if it looks OK, or if it's milky or has water in it. Naturally you'll want to change it if it does have water. Although, depending on how long it was under water, I might change it anyway just to be on the safe side. If you do, I would recommend running the Valvoline Dura-Blend semi-synthetic 80w90 gear oil. I've had very good luck with that in my diff's, and also when you go to change your oil after it's well broke in, you might look at the Quaker state synthetic 10w40 4x4 off-road blend motor oil-it works very well and helps your engine run cooler as well. -just another suggestion you might be interested in, and cheaper than AC oil as you don't have to change it as often.

-back to the diff's-the front on my 'Cat is a pain in the butt to fill-the filler is hard to get too, and in kind of a bad location. The rear is a cake walk, and don't be surprised if your front takes a lot more than the rear-the rear doesn't take much at all-only a couple ounces if I remember right.

Anyway, hope that helps, and Best of Luck,

Mike

 

Cowboy,

The rear is easy to change you are right...but the front takes much less to fill up opposed to the rear. That front fill plug is a pain.

Dakota R/T

 

Dakota-
Oops, maybe you were right-I specifically remember one of them taking considerably less than the other-thought it was the rear, but I guess I was wrong on that one. Thanks for clearing that up! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] You are right though, that front filler plug is a pain! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]

on a side note, starting to get a little worried here lately-the weather just turned horrible-huge gusting winds, heavy rain and dust blowing everywhere, some trees snapping off. I leave this afternoon for my muley hunt-granted, it's two hours away, but hopefully the storm has calmed down a bit by the time it gets further east. From past experience, they actually like the rain, cloudy and breezy weather, but the heavy winds and blowing dust keeps them holed up tight-hope this doesn't last! With any luck, I'll have some new pics when I get back-I sure hope so anyway! I've never shot a muley before! Please let this be the year!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Best of Luck Boys,

Mike

 

Have a safe trip and thanks again for the help. I'm a little surprised that the CV boot kit didn't come with any directions. Hopefully, the seat will be all dried out, and the new boot in place for a Sunday ride. Right now I have the foam out and plan on air-drying. As of right now the little cat has no intentions of going near the water. This whole experience has been good in one regard; I'm really getting to know all the mechanical characteristics of the machine.

 

Cowboy,
I read your post about using Quaker State 10-40 4x4-blend oil in your AC500 auto. I'd like to use typical automotive oil but there are no additives in them for a wet clutch. I have found (when I still had the Kawi) that Honda has a line of motorcycle oil that is fairly reasonable. For roughly $12 I can get a 4qt container (just enough to fill the 250. A little bit of a savings over AC oil which is almost $4 a qt.
If there is anyone out with a story about how they swamped their wheeler I like to hear it. Hell, we can a laugh together about our lees than prefect trail rides.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

You can check out my web page below and see some almost swamped Cats. The only time it really got burried ABOVE ther handle bars was once and everyone dropped the cameras and ran to help before my cat and I were washed away by the river. Could have been really bad. We had 20 inches of rain in 5 days and everything was ripe for the wheeling!

I ran regular valvoline 10w-40 in my two cats without a problem. The manual cats love the semi synthetic stuff. very smooth shifting and less tranny noise(gear whine). Good luck out there!