I'm probably asking for a flaming here, but oh well, here it goes. My 2000 500 Auto is 18 months old, has 185 miles on it & has never had one bit of maintenance done on it. I've made sure the oil level is okay & visully checked it out, but as far as oil changes & such, nada. Now, you might say, "185 miles does he ever ride the dang thing?" My answer is "yes, just about every day". Over the last summer, I've put over 100 miles on it & it has never left my 11 acre homestead. It has carried 1,000 lbs of bags of quikcrete, hauled unknown totals of brush & limbs & such away, graded dirt with the snowplow, plowed a bunch of snow off my 1\4 mile drive, aerated over 4 acres of lawn & seeded the same, carried trees I've planted, hauled the trash to the street, hauled water to water trees, & on & on. It has been a great workhorse & I couldn't imagine not having it.

Now to my original reason for this post. I have it dismantled a little right now to weld the shift cable bracket back to the frame. I figured while the whole front of the machine was apart, it would be a good time to do a little mainteneance, get it ready for hunting season & snowplowing season. If you guys could enlighten me as to the best ways to do the following, I'd surely appreciate it:

1. What is the fram oil filter number that matches the AC one?

2. How much oil do I need for an oil change & what type should I run (synthetic or not and what weight)?

3. I've had a little trouble with it not idleing when hot, should I check and\or change the sparkplug? It starts great & runs great, just stalls when in tough spots when hot. (this might be a factor of a way too dirty air filter)

4. What's the best way to wash, dry & reoil the air filter?
5. The black brake cylinder leaks a little around the top, brakes still work & hold good (a little squeaky but otherwise okay). Should I try to seal the cylinder or not mess with it? I haven't even topped off the fluid yet.

6. What kind of antifreeze should I add (green or pink)? I pulled the cap off & can't see any fluid, so I know it's low, just not sure how low it is.

I think that's about it, if you can think of anything else I should do, please let me know.

Oh, and I'll allow only one shot from each of you flaming me for the lack of maintenance I have done. In my defense, one of the main reasons I bought an AC was becausse I knew it would stand up to this type of treatment. Could you imagine what it would be like if I bought a **shudder** Polaris!!!!!

Thanks, Lance

 

Catlance-
Hey, good to hear from ya man! Sounds like the 'Cat is really doing quite well under the EXTREME ABUSE you put the thing through-poor girl, you ought to be ashamed of yourself! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] heh heh heh, sorry, couldn't resist. Don't feel bad though about the 185 miles with no oil change. I changed the regular oil at 300 miles, and now that I'm running synthetic oil, I change it every 500 miles. So, as we're on the subject, I don't know the fram part number, but I think it started with something like "Fram part #...." [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Seems like it was a 6000 series number, but again, I don't remember. As for the oil, I'd recommend trying the Quakerstate 4x4 off-road blend synthetic oil 10w40-I've been using it in both our 'Cats with great luck, and it helps the engine run a little cooler, and smoother as well. I think you'll like it. Oh, the 500 auto takes 2.6 quarts, so just get 3 and you'll have plenty.

For the air filter, your dealer has some special air filter cleaning solvent stuff that works great-just spray the stuff on, and wash off with water. I'm sure the K&N brand would work fine too, but I don't know for sure. After it's cleaned really well, you have to use special air filter oil to oil it-you cannot use normal motor oil because it will deteriorate the rubber from the foam, cause your air filter to fall apart, so you must use air filter oil for this purpose.

As for the spark plug, yes, pull it and see what it looks like. You might need to re-jet the machine for your altitude and where you do the most riding, but you won't know till you pull it. For what you are doing, I would recommend the CR8E plug instead of the stock 6. It runs cooler, and seems to give a little better performance out of my 500's, so I'd suggest trying that one when you swap.

About the radiator and fluid-don't know, maybe I ought to look at mine huh??? Never done anything with it either [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

You don't have too, but it would be a good idea to check both diff levels and make sure they look good as well, and have no water in them. You don't need to change yet, but if you want too, I would recommend the Valvoline dura-blend 80w90 semi-synthetic gear oil for that as well-again, I use it in both machines with great luck.

Other than that, I would examine your cv boots just to be safe, as well as check all your belows (those whoozit things on your diffs) to make sure they're all in tact and good condition, check your rubber flapper thing on your airbox to make sure it's closed properly and no mud or sticks have lodged in it to keep it open, allowing water in your airbox. Also, on your airbox, there is a small little 1/2" spout on the front right corner that has a cap on it. Pull that cap off and let any possible fluid drain out-sometimes even a drop of liquid will cause the machine to run funny.

Also, check your brakes and pads, make sure they're fine. See if the wheels will wobble from inside to outside-camber/caster stuff, and tighten your hub nuts if needed. -probably not a problem, but they could have loosened up a bit after breakin-mine had to be tightened a hair after they loosened up from breakin.

Oh, you can also adjust your throttle cable too-slide the boot back, loosen the jam nut and then tighten the cable till the engine starts to rev, then back off a bit-turn bars to full lock each way, make sure the engine doesn't increase in idle, then tighten jam nut, replace boot and you're good to go. This will give you better throttle performance, removing all the slack in the line.

Might check the battery too, make sure it's OK. Off the top of my head, that is about all I can think of right now. I know I'm forgeting a few things, but that should cover most of it. Oh-pull the plug on your muffler and blow out all the carbon buildup-just pull that bolt, then run the engine at high rpm for a few seconds or minute-whatever it takes to blow out all the black smoke. This will help it run better too.

If you like, you can check your blinker fluid and repack your muffler bearings too, but that's only if really necessary. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Check tire pressure too, adjust as needed to keep even wear pattern. Also tighten lug nuts if they need it.

Anyway, that is about all I can think of. Hope it doesn't sound too "silly", but I occassionally forget to check a few things myself, then end up paying for it later. So, I hope that helps.

Anyway, Best of Luck to ya! and I hope everything works out OK with the 'Cat. Good Luck hunting too, if you make it out. I'm heading out tomorrow afternoon, will be in "hunt mode" very early saturday morning. Hopefully my partner and I will have our mulies by saturday evening if all goes well. Unfortunately the 'Cat has to stay home as there is no way to get it where I'm going, but I will take pictures for sure if I get lucky and bag one.

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

Well, that wasn't too bad of a flame job!!!

My situation is a little unusual because because of the low miles but tons of abuse. I know I've worked that machine harder than most machines with 1,000 miles on them.

I just cleaned & reoiled my K & N in my truck today, I think I have probably just enough cleaner & oil to do the AC filter, think that will be alright??

Man, the poor girl sure looks pathetic sitting there. I've got all the front & side plastic off her, racks, winch control, seat, and air filter box. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

Every thing else looks okay. I hit her with the pressure washer before bringing her to the office to get the layers off. She still cleans up okay, the plastic is pretty scratched up but I'm not going to worry about that.

I'm going to do the muffler thing also ( & check the muffler bearings while I'm there[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] ).

Good luck slaying the mulies!!!!

 

Catlance- I've seen on several different forums (Jeeps Unlimited the only one I can recall right now) that Fram filters are not what they used to be, and are supposed to be pretty poor. I would stay with a factory filter (made by Suzuki) for now. They are supposed to be pretty good. I'd also use dino (conventional) oil until I was sure it's broken in completely- my 'Cat mechanic says that wear stops when you go with a full synthetic. This is also easily researched on the 'net. I've also been told that K & N filter oil is NOT to be used on foam filters such as on the'Cat; it may cause the foam to break down and let dirt thru. It's also been suggested that it won't waterproof your 'Cats intake, but will let water into your engine if you get in too deep.

Sounds like you've put it thru 7734- maybe you should call it Timex; takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'! I know they're tough; I regularly use mine pretty hard, and it always pulls thru.

L8r, Castr8r

 

I have been using the K&N oil since mine was new, I too have heard that it is only made for paper filters and not foam, but I have never had any problems using it, I even use the cleaner. Some of the AC dealers stock Emgo filters(never used one) I think they are a couple bucks cheaper than the stock one. Aczr2k

 

Okay, since I'm lazy & don't want to dig the book out, what does AC recommend for cleaning & oiling the filter. To be honest, I always thought it was a foam cover over a paper element until I took it off yesterday. I was surprised that it was a one piece filter. It was pretty dirty, but not unsaveable.

I've heard the same about not using synthetics before the break-in is done, question is, when is the break-in done in a case such as mine?? I will probably use conventional oil anyway, the performance has been plenty fine for me.

Noone knows about the antifreeze or brake cylinder leak????? Making me wonder how much maintenance everyone else is doing on their Cats????? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Oh yea, while I got it apart, I'm finally going to check the part # on the winch cylinoid (sp) to see if it's the one that is recalled. I'm also considering the upgrade to a 2500 series. The main reason is for the rocker switch on the handle bars, that has to make it easier for plowing snow. Anyone done the upgrade & was it worth the $100.00??

 

Catlance-
Well, naturally AC recommends ONLY genuine AC air filter cleaner solvent (or whatever they call it) and genuine AC air filter oil to oil it. The stuff was pretty cheap, so I just bought a thing of each. It seemed to work great-both oil and cleaner, but I dropped the can of cleaner and broke off that spray tip, so the stuff was just spewing out the top and I lost it all. Have to buy another can I guess. To be honest, I didn't even know you had to oil the air filter, so I just washed it good with warm water-do not use soap! I ran it this way for probably the first 1,000 miles or so, maybe a hair more even, and had been fine-that is when I learned the air filter actually had to be cleaned with special stuff and oiled. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

As for your brakes, how bad is it leaking? Is it just a kind of "seapage" around the top of the rim where the white master cylinder has been stained a bit with a bunch of dust collected to it, or is it seriously leaking, like dripping? If it is just a little seapage, I wouldn't worry about that-mine has a small stain around the top too, with the dust collected to it. I don't think that's really anything to worry about. If it is actually dripping though, I'd find out where it is-it could be something as simple as your screws vibrating loose (come to think of it, that's what happened with mine-I tightened them up, that's why I haven't worried about it since-duh! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]) Or, your sealer ring could be worn or out of place, so if it's really dripping, I'd check that out a little further.

As for the oil and breakin-AC says "break in" is the first 10 hours or 100 miles under normal riding conditions, up to about half throttle max, then backing off, being rather "ginger" with the throttle and not opening it up all the way. Granted you're only at 185 miles (?), but I would say under the stuff you do, you are definately broke in by now. You would be safe to use whatever oil you choose. I just recommended the quaker state stuff because it helps it to run smoother and cooler as well-it's all up to you.

No, unfortunately I don't know about the antifreeze. I know AC again recommends only using their own antifreeze (which I think is pink isn't it???) I know I saw some pink stuff at the dealer, maybe that was the sleds, I don't know. I need to look into that myself for this winter. It would be a good idea though to thoroughly clean your radiator too while you're at it-make sure there's no mud caked in or all over the thing, that will help a lot.

Now for the winch-after seeing that new setup on the 500 TBX, I REALLY like that new switch under the starter button on the left handlebar-that is a cool setup! When I have the money to do it, I WILL convert mine to the upgraded 2500 with that particular switch, I think it is a great setup, and should be awesome for plowing snow-you never have to take your hands off the grip even! I say go for it now while you're doing everything else.

Anyway, hope that helps,

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

1. fram Filter #6018 with the motorcycle picture on it will work. No motorctcle=no work on AC motor. I Found out the hard way.

2. You will need 4 quarts. 3.5-3.75 qts. is all she will hold. I changed to the quaker state semisynthetic blend of 4x4 oil in 15w-40 and 10w-40 and it was like putting a new tranny in my cat. Shifts are so smooth. Granted I have a manual tranny, but it will work nicely in your cat too. Since you don't put a lot of miles on your machine it will help protect it from sludge and varnish buildup.

3. Clean the filter and change out the gas. A dirty filter will cause it to run rich which works well at start up and cold conditions but ruins performance at warmer temps.

4. I use PJ1 foam filter cleaner and oil on my filter. Spray on the cleaner, let it soak 5 minutes, rinse it off from the inside of the filter, let dry overnight, reoil in the morning with PJ1 foam filter oil. Available at rockymountainatv.com or motorcycle shops.

5. Try a new MC cap from the dealer. The one on my truck goes out and leaks about a once a year and it is a 4 dollar part at the auto store.

6. Green will work fine. 50/50 mix is factory ratio but a ration with more water than green stuff will cool better. water transfer heat faster than antifreeze. 30% antifreeze minimum for water pump seals to don't detreiorate too quickly.

I hope this works well.

Dakota R/T

 

CatLance,

Stick with some type of motorcycle/atv antifreeze. Atv's and motorcycles have mechanical water pump seals that will wear out prematurely if you use regular automotive antifreeze. The automotive antifreeze has silicates and phosphates in it that will actually damage the water pump seal. The atv/motorcycle antifreeze is more expensive, but the water pump seal will surely set you back plenty.

Most manufacturers recommend changing the antifreeze every 2 years.

As far as the brake master cylinder, just remove the cap and make sure dirt or something isn't preventing a good seal, and that the rubber boot isn't torn.

Oh yeah, and don't bash me too bad just because I drive Polaris.......

Have a good one,

Waylan