i'm all new to this, i got handed down a pretty well kept 1985 350x, and i want to gave it a oil change. i went to get the oil filter, but forgot to ask which is a good 4 stroke oil to use. can somebody help me out?

 

Honda makes it's own line of 4 stroke oils, Yamalube also seems to be a big favorite, I have seen Valvoline and Castrol Motorcycle and ATV oil in Walmart,which should also be good. The main thing is making sure it is rated for 4 stroke wet clutch systems, stay away from oils that have friction modifiers ( like a lot of car oils),it will make your clutch slip, and not last very long, car oils aren't set up to handle the shear forces present in the gear box of an ATV.

 

thanks alot for the tips.

 

I am not starting anything but how do we really know any of the "myths" about auto oils are true?

There are many riders using basic everyday 10w40 with no complaints, and even those who like myself run full 100% synthetic with no problems and only pluses so there is something just not right with the old popular thinking.

I agree to stay away from detrergent additives and even think most all petroleum based lubes are not worth the savings over a quality oil, but dont think most of the std petrol oils we see (consider that the std oils we see are not much more than a by product of the gas refining process that is literally scrapped from the bottom of the barrell) are quality at all anyhow.

What I do see is some insane prices on oil with various mfg's names on it that they just buy in bulk and have private labled for them to resell to us at crazy $$$. I also see how fast a std petrol oil breaks down in my atv and how I would be changing it every couple rides if I still used it, and I hear how quieter my engine is with the synthetic (previously mobil1, currently a special product from a small company ) and even how much less it seems to heat up etc.

Dont want to turn the thread into a oil debate but really curious if you or any members know of anything that can substanciate all the ATV/motorcycle claims to use special honda or yami oils.

 

I run sythentic Amsoil in my 350X. Good stuff! You have any pics of your 350?

 

440, I didn't mean to say ALL car oils are bad, 10-40 and above do not have the friction modifiers, and can be used, but will break down faster, and more frequent oil changes negate cost savings of of cheap oil. The red capped Mobil 1 15-40 is used a lot by ATV riders, but at 3.25 a quart, it isn't any cheaper than the 4 stroke wet clutch rated oils, unless you run the full synthetic name brand stuff. When I first started riding, with an old Yamha 200, I used cheap car oil, 10-40 in winter, 20-50 in summer, and had no problems, but I just feel better using something made for my quad, now that I have a little money tied up in there !!! As long as no problems are seen, oil is mostly a personal choice for everyone. So I say, run what you want, check the level often, and keep it clean !!!

 

Here's a good read on motorcyle oils vs. regular oil.

Basically, it states that you'll get the same results from regular oils.

Article here...

 

i just started using the hp pro trans oil in the trans of my 450r, and it seems to shift more positively....like its either in gear or not. i was using the recommended hp4 5w30 (same as what i run in the engine) previously. anyone with a two stroke should give that stuff a shot.....its pretty pricey, but my quad uses about half a quart for every change. whatsevery one else use in their 2 stroke trannys?

 

For the engine in our 85' 350x we run mobil1 red cap syn. oil. It seems to hold up to the heat and abuse real well.
link

Then we run Golden Spectro Cycle Gear Lubricant SAE80W in our 85' R trans.........................[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
oil

 

Interesting points or thoughts.

Have to agree with keeping it clean (one of the bigger problems with any that shares engine oil with a wet clutch) and the other advice.

I keep finding more and more info on various oils since being in the lube business (still something new to me etc) and most of it is bad or negative sadly. I am actually finding that most of the failures I had seen during many years of being involved with industrial drives and bearings were most likely directly related to the lubrication used and not the many other things that were so popular to be blamed.

I am sure we have all seen the old claims by a popular oil that adds teflon (ptfe) that it protects an engine during cold start ups etc, but I wonder how many of us know that it is possible to make most any oil do this with a proper make up etc. Even most all of the current 100% synthetic oils avail today dont bother to include some of the more beneficial additives and its all due to the added cost and how it would reduce the bottom line.

Even with all the extra benefits of a properly designed synthetic one of the most important ones is how the "good" ones hold up to heat and friction and dont lose their viscosity or breakdown like the std oils. I for one am just that much more relaxed to know that if for any reason the oil will be in the quad for longer than it normally would etc it will still allow all the protection and performance needed, and thats something you just cant get from std petroleum oil.

I have seen a limited number of people making claims of clutch slipage etc and have to think that there are other issues involved that are causing the problem like a seriously worn clutch or poor spring pressure etc. I dont have any real factual proof either way besides my own and many others personal experience.

One last thought is the "pour ratings" of oils and how most of the higher viscosity oils will give problems during cold weather. I have not checked on every brand etc but the stuff I have been selling allows you to run the proper viscosity for when the engine heats up, but still will flow when the temps are down like you would see in an ice race etc. I remember reading a story by either dunlap or sparks about seizing an engine in the past running straight 30wt cause it wouldnt flow, and had to think what they would have thought about a 30wt synthetic that would flow to -40f.

I know I think they wouldnt have seized that engine.