Well I'll soon know what size my engine is. It seized up Sat night at Buttercup(Comp Hill). Damn that sucks. I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions once I start tearing down. So be prepared people.

 

man that sucks...but when you rebulid her you can bore it out...make it even better than before...thats what i plan on doing when mine goes...hope not anytime soon..[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I'm just hoping I can do that. I may have to resleeve it. I'm hoping it is just the top end and not the bottom end. This bike has been one rig job after another. Someone hodge podge this thing with whatever was laying around I think. I just want to make it reliable again. I did get it for $500.00, so I couldn't expect too much.That is why I'm trying to get parts back on it that belong on it. I dune ride mostly. I might actually be willing to trade it for a 350X. I ride with my son alot and and he can only go so fast on the TRX 70. So I have to lug it alot.

 

yeah that will total suck if you gotta do the bottom end as well...most bore kit are just as reliable as the stock bore...so you dont really have to worry there... you got it for a pretty sweet deal so everything cant be perfect...a 350x is pretty sweet too..but the 250r with a rebuilt/worked motor will be untouchable...my cousin 250r rips and it pretty much stock...i gotta get my trike going..just been too busy lately with modding parts to my quad...also 250r's live for the dunes....

 

Tell me you did not say four stroke!?! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]Come on Bro... It's okay, your "R" bro's are with you. I know that there is nothing more sickening in the gut than a Seizure on a two stroke, but get a camp bike if you need one. You know, like a classic 90 or 110!

Anyway, one thing that you should consider is if you plan on tearing down the engine, seriously consider re-doing the lower end. I know Honda lower ends are near bulletproof, but she is almost drinking age. Something to consider especially if you plan to build in more H.P. I myself am planning to tear down this summer and replace the original lower end and clutch. This reasoning comes from running high H.P. and logic of preventive maintenance while parts are readily available. I'm sure others have made it further with less, but I'm a bit neurotic about taking care of these issues before they arise.

Either way, the top end change out is an easy procedure. All of us "R" bros that have done it would gladly walk you through it. The main thing is to make sure any misc. "seizure" pieces get washed out of the lower-end. Hell, if you buy the parts I might be willing to do the work for free if you promise to keep her!

 

Thanks, Hopefully tonight I'll start pulling the top end and will have some more insight as to the severity of the seizure.

 

Listen to Faster, the hardest part of your rebuild is going to be getting all the piston/ring particles that fell into your bottom end, out. If you need any help, I just completely rebuilt my whole motor so everything is fresh in my mind, so ask away.

 

OK, Thanks. I know I will be asking many questions soon.

 

Good news people, After removing the top end the engine turns over again. It appears all the damage stayed above the rings some how and froze up the piston in the cylinder. I did not see any metal frags below the rings. I will flush the bottom end real good though before ever running it again. OK for those who might know what size engine is this? I measured the piston just above the wrist pin and it is 69.28mm(if I read the calipers right) and the cylinder bore is 69.40mm(again if I read the calipers right). The dome had a 21 stamped in the side of it. Cool Head by Pro Design.

 

I was running my fuel/oil mix @ 32:1, 110 octane race fuel. My compression was 205 warm and 215 cold. My plug is a BR8ES, my main jet is a 180 and my pilot is a 55. The needle clip is on the 2nd groove from the top and it is a DDJ needle.Does anyone have any idea why this may have happened?