Hey thanks oldkawi. The battery I bought (from Pep Boys) is called and Energizer, made for motorcycles and specialty vehicles. Model is 12A-A.

I'm not certain, but I think the battery I took out (was from Wal Mart) was a 10 Ah (amp hour) battery.

I'm reinterpreting the spec from the Haynes book right now.

What is says, is that for a 200 A Model you need a 12V 10 Ah battery, then says all other models use 12V 12 Ah battery. Perhaps that means that all 200 A1-4 models use 10 Ah, I'm guessing here. I presumed that since I have an A3 Model, that it fell into the latter category, but perhaps I'm wrong. Haynes does leave a little up in the air on this.....

I'm going to switch out with the 10 Ah battery (courtesy of Pep Boys) and try over.

 

OK, new battery got me running again! Still have an air problem, can't keep the motor from revving up without choking it all the way down, then it runs at a pretty good RPM without me giving it any gas. It does rev up more as I give it some throttle.

Previously oldkawi you asked if the slider goes all the way down. I'm going to check this tonight. Should it go all the way down so you can't see through the passage, or should just a little passage be present when throttle is disengaged?

Also, I'm thinking I still have some air leaking around the intake gasket, can permagasket or permaseal or something like that be used on the rubber intake manifold on the cylinder side to make a better seal?

Thanks, Trent

 

spray a little ether around the intake when its running if it goes nuts you have an intake leak. Then you should probably get a new boot any other crap will cause you issues if you ever have to service the carb. a small wide rubber band may help stop leaks on the intake if thats a problem

The slider should be almost all the way to the bottom 1 - 3 mm gap is ok but no more. Is your cable free, and no binding issues? slider should close near tight on the FRONT of the carb not back

Keep us informed

 

Hey its a cable issue. This cable was frozen when I got it, I've lubed it several times, but its still not right. It returns all but the last 1/4 inch of cable, which gets caught up somewhere along the way. Thats preventing the throttle valve (slider) from bottoming out.

No biggee though, as I have a brand new NOS throttle cable that I haven't even opened, will put it on today and see if that improves things.

One question on this, do you know of a way to beef up that spring in the carburetor so that it pulls back with more oomph? I wonder if there is a stronger spring kit that I can find and plug in there. May not be needed after I get the new cable on though. Will update here afterwards.

Thanks, Trent

 

It should be fine unless it sat frozen in position for years and has a memory, put on your new cable and your probably good to go

 

Thanks oldkawi, the old cable was coming unbound, so it was hopeless. New cable on and works well. I think the throttle valve in my carb is not designed to get as close to the bottom of the carb body. It seems to be at its lower limit now, which leaves about a 1/4" opening for air/fuel mix to flow on intake.

Engine still revs up, and I have to choke it down to get it to run decent, which results in an over rich mix. Fouling out plugs now because too rich.

My latest theory is that I may have too much fuel in the bowl, want to set the float level and fuel level now. Haynes book prescribes a method by which you attach a clear plastic tube to the carb drain, open up the drain valve, and then hold up the tube above the carb and let the fuel come up to level. Then says to measure the fuel level against the bowl lip to ID fuel level. According to spec my carb should have a difference of 1.5mm between the bowl lip and fuel level. Awfully granular measurement to eyeball. Have you used this method before? Know of another way to measure fuel level in bowl or float height? Ideas?

MTP

 

Your slider is NOT going deep enough into the tube, take the slider out, make sure the bell curve is at the front, on the wide slot on the slider use emery cloth or equivalent and ensure it is smooth, clean and has no burrs, dents, etc, you should have no more than 1/8 of an inch gap under the slider, as well put your needle down one notch deeper into the seat this will slow down fuel flow and will help control over rich running.

 

Been thinking on this and may have a clue. I put a motorcycle twist grip throttle on this thing back when it wasn't running. I bet that thottle doesn't have the same return point as the thumb throttle, and that not leaving me enough cable to return the slider to its starting postition.

Going to put the thumb throttle back on tonight and test this. Will update tomorrow. Do you think having the trottle valve slider up higher in the tube would cause starting problems? I've always had to work with it to get it to start, and am wondering if too much air in the mix would make one difficult to start.

Thanks!

 

Yep, causes big issues, you're flooding it as soon as you hit the start button, what position is your needle in? I'm guessing your in the position the book calls for, and I've always run 1 spot deeper, just seems to function better.
Why a twist throttle? its not a 2 stroke, and it really is limiting to use trail riding, or with kids using it, I'd stick with a thumb throttle, its simple, and its what was original to the machine and much safer.
Darrel

 

Terrific! Hope I can get this thing a few steps closer to running consistently well.

I put the twist throttle on it because its my first ATV, I've always been a motorcycle guy and thought it would be fun. After riding it a while I realized its more work and not fun. Hand got tired/numb. Will put the thumber on there tonight and hopefully ride again!

Just curious oldkawi, how did you get to know so much about these things? You've been a tremendous source of info for me, and I'm real glad to know ya. Thanks a million, will update tonight or tomorrow.

Trent