Hi everyone.

Last year I bought a 300ex with a 350x motor in it. I heard it run when I bought it but that was the last time I had it running since then, untill last weekend.
I adjusted the valves and decompression cable and it was running really strong. I pull started it behind a car and when it started up i pulled in the clutch and stopped it to take of the tow rope. While I was waiting for someone to take off the tow rope the clutch suddenly engaged, luckily i was quick enough on the brake to stop it and kill it before I hit the car. Anyone have any ideas on this? Now I can even manually dissingage the clutch all the way (down at the engine) with it in gear (shut off) and when I push it there is still lots of drag on the engine. I have the service manual and it looks like a really big job to replace the clutch so I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas before I tackle theis project. Any input would be much appreciated as I would REALLY like to get this quad on the trail THIS season.

Thanks again,
Justin

 

Sounds like the cable is wasted if you are actually able to engage and disengage the clutch at the engine. Just my .02.

 

You say that you can manually engage it do you mean you can do it with your hand or by pull on the cable??? If you can do it with your hand, I would say that the springs are bad. I would also guess that your cluch cable is bad and it might have came loose engaging it or it might be too loose. Thats my $.02

 

Thanks for the help guys. What I was saying is that when I manually move the clutch arm on the engine to where it would be fully disengaged (with the engine off) and try to push it with it in a gear you can still feel a drag on the motor. So would you still think springs? Any other ideas? I was really wanting to ride the thing this weekend, sounds like I'm going to have to open it up instead. So am I right that this is a pretty big job or does the service manal make it sound worse then it is? I've never opened up a motorcycle/ATV engine before.

Thanks again for any more help,
Justin

 

Yeah if it is still dragging you most likely need to replace the clutch. It is not really as bad as it sounds. PM ThrashandCrashUntilItsTrash or Knowsalot they can walk you though it. On my 2-stroke you just remove the side cover, remove the discs, plates and springs. Your manual should give you the + or - tolerences for them. There is a chance you wont need springs, but when in doubt change it out.

 

so are you saying when the engine is off and you put it in gear and pull in the clutch you cant push it very well? Then it seems like your not even pulling the clutch in making it want to turn the motor over??? Just trying to fully understand.

If this is the case can you still ride it but just not stop? If this is the case maybe you need to tighten up your clutch cable and MAYBE... your cluch lever is not letting you have the travel it should.

 

does the clutch cable still work,and pull the arm on the engine??
something might have broken in the case!!
maby the berring broke?mine did on one of my bikes
there are ball berrings inside of theberring if it broke they could have fell into the rest of the motor
i suggest that you find out fore sure before riding it if so it could do serious damage

also check the basket for ware where the plates go in to the basket look at the edges
to see if there is grooves worne in the basket if so it will not work propperly
it will drag even with new plates--- these are called chatter marks
they can be filed down flat again as long as there not too bad
if so replace or have it built up with alluminum weld
its usually cheeper to buy one used from a salvage yard
CHECK THE ENTIRE BASKET FOR STRESS CRACKS WHILE YOUR AT IT
USE THE BOOK AND YOU SHOULD DO FINE
BE SURE TO REPLACE ANY WORNE OIL SEALS OR O RINGS THAT AFFECT THE OIL PUMP
GOOD LUCK