that sounds like that could be the problem, ill try it tommorrow, and yeah the carb is the same size as the stock. i will let you let how it goes. thanks

 

I hate to say this but is your choke open or closed
I have noticed some of the knockoff carbs choke is backwards
Look in carb and check proper operation
As for jets
I know dratv.com has them
On your bike is the origional air intake tube still intacked and are you still using origional air filter and box

I would start with the basics
Put a new plug in engine
Check choke
fire up engine if choke is open and problem still there
Then with engine running start closing choke see if engine cleans up and runs good
Do Not just close choke
If engine gets worse it is to rich
If engine cleans out and runs beter to lean

But you could still be chasing why your engine died origionally before carb and header
But try this
My bet is your engine is lean
Thanks
Ray

 

na the choke is the same, it really doesnt run good with it on or off or in the middle. the air intake is intacked and i have a uni air filter thats i got new with the pipe and the air box is stock. i made a video so you can hear how it sounds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuPU8kQE5Ko

 

Sounds good man, all you need to do is set the carb right. Did you try different positions on the needle jet? Keep in mind there is obviously no accelerator pump on these carbs, meaning you will never be able to make the the bike respond very well after slamming on the throttle, but it shouldn't bog down and die by slamming the throttle like that, but you also can't expect it to perform like a FI car or carbed car that has an accelerator pump. What is it like say half throttle to WOT instead of closed to WOT? Does it get alot worse when cruising in high gear? It's really hard to diagnose this type of problem over the internet. Another way to check this is by pulling the spark plug, a black sooty spark plug means the engine is to rich (too much gas) brown to grayish tan colour on the tip is perfect and clean gray looking is to lean (not enough gas). Keep in mind, you wiil get a far more accurate reading if you put a new spark plug in and run the engine for awhile, you could just be inspecting what your old carb was doing. And if that isn't enough, then heres some reading:
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.c...carburetion/index.html

 

Sorry about not getting back
Work hectic
Ok it runs like honda185s says not to bad
So you got new carb header and air filter
Is the air filter still in the origional air box and if so is the tube still connected going up the inside of the frame
If so now would be a good time to remove the tube/snorkle
These are ok on stock but only have about 3/4" openeing at front way to restrictive
Cool bike runs so all is good
My bet is when you try riding it probably boggs
You will now need to move to the next step of making engine run it's best
I would recomend get a note pad and make notes to keep track of changes
This is what I have done on my and my buddies 110s
First check your ignition timing If you have an inductive timing light great use battery power from a 12v battery like car or truck
connect inductive lead to plug wire on 110 remove timing plug on left engine cover start engine adjust to the F mark with engine ideling about 1500-1600 rpm
If you have an adjustable advance timing light you could advance about 5* more
Then take out and ride see what it does
Try different settings on the metering rod
Raising rod gives more fuel lowering less fuel
You can get a feel for what the metering rod can do as there may be a point that if raised to hi you loose carb air fuel adjust
My 110s like the metering rod at step2 lean
Then you will have to jet
To do this I purchased jets from dratv.com
I also purchased a set of wire gage drill bits to get jets to size I needed
So what I would suggest first
Started with new plug and note pad
Stock jet is #82 figured out this is about .0292"
Largest Jet you can get for stock is #90 .035"
I would try
Order a couple sizes up to the largest they have
But they are kind of expensive as I remember like $4.50 ea

Note:
If you are brave since you already have new carb and header and such
When ordering jets order the hi perf cam for the ATC90 for about $25
I am running one in one of my 110s
When I wind out in first and hit second the front wheel comes right up and will carry about 20 feet

Something to keep in minde these small engines do respond to change such as you have started but the steps need to be taken slow and notes need to be made
otherweise you will end up going in circles
When making changes make good basic notes what did improve what did not improve
you will see both

To give Idea where this could endup
On my 110 with open air box with UNI filter hi perf 90 cam header with super trap
Timing set 17* advanced
Metering rod #088 step2 lean
Pilot jet 38 (idlejet)
Main jet drilled to .043"
Air fuel screw 1.5 turns out
Altitude about 1500 ft

Out runns all of my buddies 110s
Good luck
Ray