1984 Honda ATC 200s valve clearence inspection
#1
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Hi. I have an 84 Honda 200s that I want to check valve clearance on. I have 2 machines and I don't know if its ever been done. I can get these started, but they been running funny, so I'm going through all the maintenance procedures outlined in the shop manual so I can start pinpointing the problem.
Now in the shop manual it says in order to check valve clearance you need to remove the little cap that is by the pull rope and line the "T" mark on the crank with the index mark on the caseing. I did that. Took a little finessing. Now the piston is at TDC. THan I removed both inspection head caps. There I can access the valve adjusting screw and nut. Now it says I need to use a .002" feeler gauge and place it between the adjusting screw and valve stem.
Where exactly do I put the feeler gauge at? I attempted to di this last night and I couldn't get the feeler gauge to slide under anything to check clearance. I don't know if I'm doing it right or what. I tried the back one and GOd help me with that one. The frame of the bike is in the way.
I do have the special wrench needed for the job. Can anyone explain how to do this? I never tore down these motors yet, so I'm a green horn to this stuff, but I am capable of doing it.
PS... when I say running funny, the one wants to idle fine and start okay, but under power it is hesitant. It seems like its a electrical thing. Any pointers there would be nice. The other one runs fine, but is a little harder to start and won't idle for long than it dies. It sounds like its choking or something when its cold and I give it some gas. It'll rev up like normal than make a "choke" sound and that when it seems like its trying to get gas or air or something and thats when the engine revs lower than it than wants to die?
These machines are mostly used in the winter and are OEM everything. I have new tires on one and have new air filters on the way. THanks....
Now in the shop manual it says in order to check valve clearance you need to remove the little cap that is by the pull rope and line the "T" mark on the crank with the index mark on the caseing. I did that. Took a little finessing. Now the piston is at TDC. THan I removed both inspection head caps. There I can access the valve adjusting screw and nut. Now it says I need to use a .002" feeler gauge and place it between the adjusting screw and valve stem.
Where exactly do I put the feeler gauge at? I attempted to di this last night and I couldn't get the feeler gauge to slide under anything to check clearance. I don't know if I'm doing it right or what. I tried the back one and GOd help me with that one. The frame of the bike is in the way.
I do have the special wrench needed for the job. Can anyone explain how to do this? I never tore down these motors yet, so I'm a green horn to this stuff, but I am capable of doing it.
PS... when I say running funny, the one wants to idle fine and start okay, but under power it is hesitant. It seems like its a electrical thing. Any pointers there would be nice. The other one runs fine, but is a little harder to start and won't idle for long than it dies. It sounds like its choking or something when its cold and I give it some gas. It'll rev up like normal than make a "choke" sound and that when it seems like its trying to get gas or air or something and thats when the engine revs lower than it than wants to die?
These machines are mostly used in the winter and are OEM everything. I have new tires on one and have new air filters on the way. THanks....
#2
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well I just rebuilt the carb here at work. The slow jet was clogged a little. It makes sense, the slow jet controls the idle speed fuel... I think. We'll see when I put her back on, put fresh gas in tank and new air filter. If it still does it, I think the engine could be sucking in air through a bad gasket or something. I still need to tune the carb by pilot screw and throttle stop screw
#4
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Would it be easier to loosen the valve clearance set screw and nut and than raise it a little bit so I can get the feeler guage in there than set the clearance?
Last night I got the one machine all set and its waiting for the air filter that I should be picking up today. I cleaned some electrical connections, so maybe it might help. I put new premium gas in the tank and I can't wait to see how she will run. I been riding theses since I was 12 or younger and they sure do hold up well for 24 years. AND NO REBUILDS!!!!! I think its time.
Last night I got the one machine all set and its waiting for the air filter that I should be picking up today. I cleaned some electrical connections, so maybe it might help. I put new premium gas in the tank and I can't wait to see how she will run. I been riding theses since I was 12 or younger and they sure do hold up well for 24 years. AND NO REBUILDS!!!!! I think its time.
#5
#6
#7
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Okay I have both carbs rebuilt the one is running fine now, I still need to put the other carb back on the second machine. I bought 2 UNI air filters for them with FAB-1 air filter oil. That stuff is nice, goes on good than once it is on the filter, its like glue after is sets. One can will probably last a lifetime. CAn't wait for icefishing that what I'm using these for. I did other maintenance checks like chain tension and throttle cable play and such. I haven't done the valve clearance yet, but I'm looking to do that last.
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