i was wondering about these two bikes, the 250R and YFZ. i want to know which is faster. stock for stock. cause I’ve found a 250R on atvtrader completely stock but i still want to get a YFZ and i want to know which is faster in top speed, drag (300FT), and MX. they'd both eventually get souped up but i just was wondering?

 

you are going to hear alot of different responses from this post but im going to say gpo with the yfz bc it will save you cash in the end that you can use for mods, it also depends on you, if your a bigger guy you may want the yfz, a little better low end and you may find the size better, also the yfz looks hot in red and white, it will save you like 200 off the yellow, enuf for a pipe and filter.....

 

Go for the 250r, you wont regret it and here is why..

A stock 250r cost about 3k-4k, a yzf cost like 7k right?? That means you will have 3k or 4k to spend on AFTERMARKET parts for the 250r, such as suspension, porting, pipe, tires, nerf bars, handlebars, carburetor, reed cage, and swingarm maybe..


mild port: $99.00
35mm Pwk carb: $165.00
ESR trx5 pipe: $219.00
ESR silencer: $99.00
AC Racing Bumper: $89.95
AC Racing Grab bar: $46.95
AC racing swingarm skid: $99.95
AC full skid plate: $109.95
AC pro peg nerfs: $249.95
(two) Razr II fronts w/ douglas .190: $295.98
(two) Razr II-rear w/ douglas .190: $447.98
Lonestar +2+1 a-arms: $734.95
Lonestar swingarm (std.): $524.95
Elka RR36C/PB36C Triple front shocks: $885.99
Elka single rate rear: $750.00

Total: $4818.60

All of these parts will make the 250r 10x better for racing, duning, whatever.. heck, you don't REALLY need the shocks unless your going all out, same with the a-arms or swingarm, but knowing you can get all of those parts for the same price of a yzf?? I'd go for a modified trx250r over a stock yzf ANY DAY!

 

I agree 250r all the way!!!!!!!!!!

 

250R!
If you're looking to really kick some serious @ss at the track, heres what I would personally do:

Go find a stock R...and trust me you can find a good one around $3 that might even have minor mods.
I bought mine for $2200 cuz the guy just got a divorce. I

For the price of a stock YFZ you could do this:
ESR330 top end with ESR porting or Forward Motion (Eric Gorr) porting(low-mid range for mx only)

Pipe: ESR TRX6 or Curtis Sparks MX (big bore for the 330) to match the porting...these two pipes make huge low and midrange gains and from the looks of the sparks pipe dyno, won't sacrifice top end power when infact will give you a few ponies up top also

Reeds: G3 Power Curve Reed Pedals from www.1dirracing.com (I put these on my R with 14/38 gearing and went 16 sizes up on my main, 1 down on my needle and have to adjust my pilot a bit, went for a 300ft run on pavement and busted 4 teeth off my front sprocket because of those reeds they give so much low and midrange power, plus they are adjustable!)...seriously, they give serious power

k&n air filter, also an outerwear airbox cover

Carb: Always heard the Lectron Powerjet 38x40 was the strongest and most powerful all around carb...even more than an A/S apparently

Head: Coolhead with adjustable domes, you get 2 free ones from ESR when you buy their top end kit. You can get them for pump gas low-mid, pump mid-top, race fuel low-mid and also mid-top, you can also get those for alky too...for MX i'd get the pump gas low-mid and race fuel low-mid

That motor will throw out some INSANE horsepower, and the 12mm torque spacer that comes with the G3's REALLY gets that power to the ground and quick
Obviously now you will need a-arms, suspension(pep, elka, axis etc) , nerfs, tires (itp or razr), swingarm if you want, bumper, tough grab bar....I like the above list Sm0k3d gives.

Once you get used to that kind of power and setup and get really good at managing your powerband, handling and nerves for racing and get
everything down good....you'd be extremely tough to beat for ANYONE