I would'nt mind having those # as well..

 

just fyi, the DS bearings are tapered to handle side loads, side impact, and power slides better than traditional bearings used. they are a step up from the norm, but because they are tapered they require routine checking of axle nut adjustment. every time the rear of the bike is raised for chain maintenance (after every ride or course), the axle needs to be checked for tightness. Any play found can be easily removed by tightneing the axle nut.
if the bike is ridden extensively on a loose axle, the bearings will be damaged. but if the the axle nut is kept tight, the bearings will way outlast traditional ball bearings. at the same time, overtightening the axle nut will cause damage to the bearings. the axle nut only needs to be a little tighter than hand tight, using a strap wrench so as not to redneck it with a pipe wrench.

In over two years, I've had to snug down my axle nut only once, but I still check for axle play every time the rear of the bike is jacked up. i ride water almost every ride, and my axle has spent much time submerged in creeks for long distances. for this reason, I clean, inspect, and repack the bearings anually, and I'm still running on the factory original set.

 

exactly what nut are you talking about?

 

the axle nut - the big aluminum nut to the left of the brake caliper, with the split on one side and a bolt/nut that tightens to hold it in place and keep it from loosening. it is what holds the entire axle/bearing assembly in place - it sandwiches everything together and draws the tapered bearings into their races.

 

allright, thats what i thaught. just making sure [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]