Sandman430,


Has Gary had good luck with his engines running NO counter balancer so far?? Have you had a chance to ride one yet?



Bigger.

 

Doesn't stroke create more friction on the cylinder walls due to the angle the rod is out on the crank?

How Stuff Works Link
Check out this one explaining the horizontal distance of the crank - like a cheater bar - creating torque

A stroked engine also doesn't rev as fast as a non-stroked engine.

If I only had the money to try all the options out!

Tell us more Sandman!

 

Stock is 83mm
760 is 87 mm[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

DuneMe, if you dissagree with me one more time "POW!!" right in the kisser!!! LOL just/kidding[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]


Actually I love discussions like this.

Correct me if im wrong(seriously I could be WAY wrong here) , but when the motor is stroked, the head has to be cut to allow the piston to come up into the head.right? and when it is at the bottom of its stroke, that is where the increase angle is as its highest Fricton rate.

Wouldnt it be possible instead of cutting your head to allow room for the piston, just to have a 2mm(depending on the amount of stroke)spacer biult to go under your jug??? that way you dont have to cut your head,or change pistons?? I know the Timimg chain lenght comes into play here, but I think thier is enough play in it to compensate 2-3-4 mm. Especailly if your head is DECKED like mine is.

I know Pami puts on the "own" cylinder when you buy a $$$$$ stroker kit, could they be doing something like this??? Has anyone ever measured a PAMI vs. Stock cylinder??






BIgger.

 

Man- that LONG stroke without much bore sounds like it would be fun. Horsepower is good and all, but TORQUE is where the fun is. I think, anyway.
It definately would not rev as fast, and I think it would produce more friction. Only one good way to find out!

 

The most friction should be in the middle of the stroke where the rod angle is greatest...right?

A spacer might work, but can you imagine trying to seal that sucker?


I am more of a big bore short stroke kinda guy myself.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

No problem sealing the spacer, thier little to no pressure down thier.




And ask your wife which is better???? Long stroke or Short stroke????[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Its all the same in engines too....ALKY, long stroke,HIGH compression... alllllways makes her happy!!!! (i'm talking about the DS[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img])






Bigger.

 

ROTFLMAO!!!

I miss read what you wrote. You were taking about cutting the head and then I saw spacer and thought you meant on top of the cylinder. (I guess that what I get for thinking:confused[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

TVI'S STROKER IS 5MM AND IS AVAILABLE WITH OR WITHOUT COUNTERBALANCE. IT USES A ROLLER BEAR ON THE BIG END OR SPECIAL H/DUTY CON ROD,CHECK OUT TVI POWER&SPORTS WEB SITE FOR PICTURES.

 

It's all good [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Stroked doesn't mean the head has to be cut. The wrist pin can be located in a different location. . . heck . . . this geometry stuff is going to make my head hurt! Someone may know the answer. Wrist pin location vs. crank pin location.

The worst friction point is when it is 1/2 way down on the stroke. At that point the crank bearing is perpendicular. This is also the peak HP point of the engine (see the How It Work's link.)

The 703mm is a stock jug that is bored to 102mm and re niked. I don't think the cylinder height is any different. I think the jug is also the same height for the 760 (Gottfried told me my timing/cams wouldn't have to be adjusted going from stock bore to 680 to 760.)