definitely replace that jet - changing that endcap has now made you much leaner than you should be, and lean = excessive heat which you do not want.
Just count on the 170 being adequate - Mr.HP has done lots of dyno testing himself to determine which one to send you with the endcap.
Just be certain you change the MAIN jet - the STARTER jet looks just like it, and if you replace it by mistake you'll have issues. The main jet lies up inside a brass collar and will be stamped with a 165. make sure you install the new jet with the collar.

A small pair of vise grips clamped gently on the screw head to crack it loose is extremely easy to do. if you replace the screws with allen heads like recommended, be certain you get metric screws - don't let the hardware store guy screw you by handing you some inch bolts that end up destroying the threads.

 

sam,
I got a 00 ds as well , all these replys are right on just take your pick on how to do it. I did some thing like blackhawk did except I used a die grinder and cut the head of the screw right off, pulled the bowl off then use vice grips to twist the rest sticking up out. and stick to the allen head I got mine at Lowes

Also the 00ds is running a 37.5 pilot jet witch is right next to the main jet. they changed the pilot in 01 to a 45 pilot for ez-er starting,
Also they changed the slide spring, the big spring that closes the black slide, you'll see after you get it appart. mine was backfiring through the carb cuz the spring wasent closing the slide all the way causing gas to get in the cylender when the throttle was choped and a larger collar these were some 2001 carb updates. if there not causing you any trouble I wouldnt change them just FYI[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

thanks for all the input. i wanna get started sooo bad but i gotta go to school and work.

this may be a really stupid question but i don't HAVE to take the throttle cable off do i? i just need to get to the bowl right? which is in the air intake hole - i think, i'm just guessing here?

thanx

 

To get the carb all the way off, you do have to take the throttle cable off. It's not that bad, just be careful. Removing the carb the first time will save you time in the long run.

The bowl is the bottom part of the carb- I'm not sure where you're going with that talk about the air intake hole.(?)

You can get to the bowl with the carb installed, but it's getting those four stock screws off the first time that make you need to take the carb all the way out. Those screws are TIGHT. You can't get to them well with the carb installed and a philips head screwdriver will just strip the heads. With the carb off, I got one with a regular screwdriver, and the rest required the vise-grips.

If you take the time to do it right the first time, (remove @#$% tight screws and replace with SS hex-head screws) jet changes in the future can easily and quickly be made with the carb installed.

 

thanks that's exactly what i needed to hear: where it was. haha i'm a little thick headed somtimes.

i'll let you guys know how it goes!

 

I also found a good quality screw driver is a must! I bought a set of Klien or is it Klein??? anyways the rubber grip is perfect.

But, seriously, replace them with allen head cap screws. Make sure you put them in tight, these 4-strokes have a lot of vibration to them and things have a tendency to rattle off.

Also, since you are new to this thing, I suggest blue Loctite for any other bolts you revove. You can get it in a small tube from your local auto parts store. Use it on almost everything!

 

buy the big bottle you'll want it for your other machines.

 

Everyone here has given great advice. Take your time and enjoy working on your bomb, its very rewarding. Just to let you know, I ran the stock 165 main all last year with a billet end cap during drag racing season with no problems. So if you want to ride this weekend it should be fine, just dont run it for 2 miles wide open or something crazy like that. But you will make more power with the bigger jet.



MrHorsepower

 

man i tell you what!!! Both homedepot AND lowes have NO metric, stainless steel anything!!! how frustrating. i guess i'll be waiting for next week to put the new jet in.

i know i've said it before but thanks!!! if i hadn't found this forum i would still be running stock and having all those crappy big headded, all stock except for piped shee's still woopin me. we'll see after this weekend what's up w/ them now!

later guys.

 

Home Depot and Lowe's are useless in some areas. They are such a huge store, yet they don't bother to carry any Metric. I've had excellent luck finding Metric bolts at: Do It Center, Ace Hardware & True Value Hardware. I think you are better off calling the hardware store first to see if they carry metric bolts. Beware though, even shops which carry metric bolts might not have the 4mm x 10mm and 4mm x 12mm allen head bolts in stainless steel. However, if you at least start looking at places which have metric bolts, you're half way there! Unless you are confident in the hardware store you are calling, I wouldn't bother asking for 4mm x 10mm and 4mm x 12mm allen head stainless steel bolts over the phone - you'll probably make the head spin of whatever 16 year old kid answers the phone. Not that the kids who work there are all bad, however most of them are there for the job and don't know much about bolts etc.