Well I have my quad tore apart because I'm adjusting valves but I decided to take my intake manifold off to port it a little with the dremel. I just need to know what to do to give me the best power gain if any? how much do I need to take off and exactly where? Is there certain spots to do in the manifold or not touch at all? does it have to be rough inside like it is now or should I make it smooth? Please let me know some info on what to exactly do so I don't go backwards and defeat the purpose of trying to gain some power. If anyone knows what I need to do tell me but I know MisterHorsepower knows what I need to do so let me know. thanks.

 

The main thing to look for is when you put it back on, make sure it is properly aligned. Just a little missmatch can ruin all the good you may have done. My intake was in good shape and when aligned the ports matched the head but the bolt holes were not centered very well. A little tweaking lined it up. The next most obvious problem is the rubber boot gets out of shape when the hose clamp compresses it. Place the boot on the intake and tighten the clamp as if it was on the bike and note the parts bulging into the airflow also any gaps between metal and rubber. Then take it off and dremmel the offending areas. When that side looks good, clamp the boot on the carb and check that side.
Intake side rough, exhaust side smooth. The roughness creates a skin or boundary swirling airflow layer that atomizes fuel and helps atomize fuel that wants to adhere to the surface. Which evaporates faster water in a sponge or water in a puddle?

 

some of the best gains come from matching the intake manifold ports to the head ports - in my case the manifolds ports were larger than the head's, so this created a shoulder for the airflow to stumble on so enlarging the head ports to match the intakes was a great improvement. Likewise, if a larger aftermarket carb is used the intake manifold needs enlarged on that end to match the bore of the carb as well. the main idea is to have smooth transition from one piece to the next. but to port the head it must be removed.

one of the advantages of a TM carb from RWR is that they fit them with a collar that sits right against the intake manifold so the air never touches rubber - its a straight tunnel of alum from carb to head. this collar bore matches the carb bore, and in turn the intake bore should be enlarged to match it. this is one feature guys who seek an alternate source for TM carbs miss out on.

 

Mystereid has some good advice, follow it. I ported the mouth of the intake to 47mm on width but not height. That top and bottom vein needs to be run all the way out to the mouth to create an early seperation point for the air and fuel to start following. The extra width at the mouth straighten's the alighnment to the intake valve so the mixture doesnt have to turn such a sharp corner. Knife edge the bubble (without breaking through) that is on the top and make it part if the vein. Do not open the intake side at all. Drill the holes one size larger so the intake is easier to alighn with the ports, it will lign up almost perfect.


MrHorsepower

 

Thanks a lot guys! I just got back in the house from porting my intake manifold. I SPENT 4 HOURS OUT THERE DOING IT LOL!!! I wanted to take my time and do it right. Just by looking at it I KNOW it will help a lot. I took a lot of aluminum out of the sides to make the curve of the intake pretty much straight. (Very slight curve now). After dickin around with the dremel and not getting much done with about half a dozen bits my Dad calls me from work and I told him what I was doing. He laughed at me and says, "Josh, I got about 100 different carbide bits made just for porting." So after he told me where to find them I was shocked! My Dad could start his own porrting shop with the stuff he has LOL!! So I used a fancy carbide bit and a 90 degree air grinder and then I was getting some serious stuff done. It turned out great and it looks professional even. So thanks for the help guys!

Just a couple more questions: How much of a gain should I expect to see from this, and I adjusted valves? My intakes were tight so I know I'll have a little more power from being adjusted right? And should I do anything to the intake ports on the head? Just a little to match up to the manifold better? thanks again![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

it's all the little things that gives a guy a edge, clean air filter port matched intake, clamps on the intake tube, proper chain tension, those are the things that will help you edge other guys.

 

Mine makes 4HP over stock. It takes me at least 4-6hrs to do one right, that includes milling machine time.
This will broaden you power and torque range up top with out sacrificing bottom end. It's kinda like putting in small cams.



MrHorsepower

 

As SANDMAN said & I think Mr.Horsepower has said in the past that strapping your intake tube, putting hose clamps around the intake tube (black plastic tube from air cleaner to carb) will make a big difference. I know it did on mine! It keeps it from sucking in to hard & losing HP.
Later!
OOPS I think I type to slow, already 3 replys before I finnished typing!
O-well, its great that everyone chips in!

 

I did the intake tube clamp thing a long time ago but thanks. I used zip ties for it though. I spent a lot of time on my intake manifold so it should work great. But should I need to know if I should do anything to the intake ports on the head. Should I make it a little bigger where it meets the manifold?

 

No. Leave the head alone.



MrHorsepower