Okay Gary was good with me on my motor (my loan didn't go thru to get it paid off in one shot) and delivered the goods today. However I was wondering if anyone here can give me some pointers before I slap it together.

1- I got new long studs for what I am guessing to hold the motor in. What is a recommended tool so I don't screw up the threads.
2- I got shim under buckets and I was wondering WHERE exactly do I measure the tolerances and how does one go adjusting them. Gary said they are NOT BMW parts, more or less a Kawasaki item. Is there a recommened feeler gauge (plastic I assume) to use?
3- Is there anything I torque down more than what the manual states? I know I read something and Gary told me but I completely forgot what it was.
4- The new sleeve doesn't have that notch at the bottom like the stocker. Is this normal?
5- What kind of break in should be done with this motor? I'm hoping it runs like a raped ape.



I'm dying to see what this thing will do. I'm really curious on how will it perform against my Stage III buddy. Most say I will take him. He is convinced he won't get me. I will post results as soon as it's dialed in and tuned up.

 

If ya have it DIALED in to the gills [especially on alky], you will be surprised at the power difference, And dont worry about your buddies stage 3...
After a while youl start feeling bad for the people you race, and youll half throttle it just to clown ...This one guy I know just had a big bore done and I didnt want to see him cry literally, so I actually let off the gas when we were going up the hill and only took him by a few bike lengths.., so if that tells ya anything you should be happy..

 

all the torques are the same as stock
1- those long studs are what holds the cylinder and head down 44 ft pounds
2- don't worry about that notch it's not needed piston doesnt come down that far. you may want to find a snap-on dealer for a 17mm thin wall socket on those head bolts. it was like $17 item.

good thing about your wait is it saw a improvement in the cylinders.

 

1. Thread them into the cases.
2. Go to Sears and get a feeler gauge set (they are metal and have a slight bend in them. Try to squeeze them between the cam lobes and the buckets. They one to read is the feeler gauge that moves freely but has a little resistance. Start small and work up.
3. Not sure about this one.
4. No worry. My understanding is the notch is for you to be able to put the circlip on the wrist pin on installation (I have never done it that way.)
5. I would guess three heat cycles before heavy use. Not sure if there are different suggestions with the steel sleeve.

As for performance. . . you're going to ROOST 'em!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Duneme,

I have shim under buckets now. Fromw what I was told by Gary (and what I understand) I need to remove the bucket and check somewhere else. I will call Gary on that matter before I finish assembling it. I need an inch pound torque wrench. Finding one that starts at 0 pounds is kind of tuff to find. I also hear it's rather expensive. I got a FT pound one but have come up with zilch for an inch pounder. Man you guys are all getting me stoked to run this thing. I might take off of work to slap it together.

 

sears has inch pound there like 50 bucks.

 

I rode a 720, you will like it. Your buddy wont, he's going to have to buy one now too!

 

Sandman is right. Sears has them. (They might be more than that though!)

Go ahead and put the head on your work bench and bolt down the cam carriers with the cams on. Try inserting the feeler gauges. If the clearances need adjustment then pull off the cams and lift the buckets and pull the little shims off (they are about the size of a pencil eraser.) You only need to lift the buckets to change the shims out.

I would suggest pulling the buckets if you just got the head back throught the mail. They can fall out and you want to make sure they are located on the end of the valve.

Also, make sure you use assembly lube liberally on the cam journals and the cams and buckets as you are assembling the engine. This will reduce wear on inital startup.

Good luck and send me a PM if you want my mobile number for any questions you may run into.

 

Hey Mario, "Who" are you talking about?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]