Is the piston in the right way?

 

man that would hurt[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

I'll take it apart this afternoon, I have already 3 10 min idle cycles and 3 10min riding cycles, one each at 50, 60, and 70 percent normal riding pace. The knocking only started after the last ride, so I know everything is in right or it would not have run this long, Its probably just the cam bolts or something similar, I hope. I did use blue loctite on the cam blots. Would you recomend red, I know it is much stronger.

 

This is very important. The domed side up. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

the only thing stopping the cam gear from spinning is that small pin that does'nt even make it all the way threw the cam collar( if its made noise because of loose gear double check hole in cam and pin on gear for wear or egging of the hole). for stock application this is fine but stiffen up the valve springs and add more lift and you'r asking for it. i just got a new set of pami race cams and they run a special pin threw the cam to gear locking them together. or the tac weld works good also.

 

Just a tip for those who don't already know. Before using locktite always clean both threaded surfaces with brake parts cleaner. Locktite, like most sealers, does not stick to oily surfaces and will give a false sence of security when puting your engine together.
Red locktite is used for those fasteners that you don't plan to remove again, like helicoils. If red is used properly heat will be required before removing the fastener.
NEVER use red on aluminum unless its to install a helicoil, it works so good that when you remove the bolt the threads will come out as well.
Blue locktite (when used properly) is plenty strong enough to retain any fastener in your engine and can be removed without heat.
I've been there and suffered the consiquences of not using locktite properly. Learning the hard way sucks [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

 

And the problem was.......CAM BOLTS!!! I took the valve cover off and the intake cam bolt was finger tight, NOT GOOD. I took both bolts out and cleaned them with alcohol, I also cleaned the cam with q-tip and alcohol. Used a nice helping of blue loctite and torqued them to 133 lb in or 11 lb ft like the book says, thinking this didnt sound like enough, I called rwr and he said it was a misprint and to go to 30 lb ft. That sounds better. Put her back together, AGAIN and perfect, no knock. Thanks everyone for your help, I just love this forum!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

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Also your Cam carrier bolt should be tightent to 89 In Lbs.!!! Not 11 Ft. lbs!! That is why you snapped them!!! Holy Crap!!!!!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Punisher, I tightened the carrier bolts to 7.3 ft lbs, that is equal to 89 in lbs. but in the directions from rwr they said to go to 110 in lbs, which is around 9 ft lbs. but they broke at 7. I guess every time you torque them they twist a little and get softer until they just start spinning and break. I replaced them with stronger bolts, stock is 8.8 on head and new are 12.9