I hope it didn't. I pulled a plug out.. no signs of metal fragments in it. I would really hate to take the head off again. So far this is becoming a nightmare...


Before I throw my arms up let me check the valves... I think the problem will reside there.

 

Im with bartlett on this one sounds like a comp. issue. I would check to make sure your auto decompressor is not stuck holding a valve open also. My web cams when i first got them with the brake in coating on them made the decompressor very sticky. Just a thought. Hopefully not a bent valve, but i wouldnt think that would be the case if the motor was built right. What cams are you running?

 

O one other thing make sure that your spark is strong and consistant at the plug. I had a crank trigger go out and it would get a spark when you first hit the starter button then it would intermitantly fire every few revolutions.
goodluck!

 

I'm not sure what cams I got. Gary mentioned to me that they are "good all around cams". Then again he said he'd send it to me so I can get pump gas (I didn't get the extra gasket) so I'm not sure what I really got. How do you check if a valve is bent? I guess I will need to remove the head after all. I will check tolerances first before I tear into it. I know my Raptor gave me a lot of problems on starting. When I got the vavles dones it fires right up.

 

Quadloco I'm also using a colder than normal plug....I think on Tuesday when the delears open I will get the 8 instead of the 9. How do you know if a crank trigger is bad? Where is it located?


One more thing... I want to thank everyone who has helped me and pitched in thier 2¢. I've been feverently trying to get this going so I can spank some a$$ this upcoming riding season. I plan to iron out all my quirks this winter to ride as much as possible next year. Thanks again.

 

To check to see if you have a bent valve you need to do a cylinder leak down test. Basicly what you do is put the motor on top dead center of the compression stroke so the valves would all be closed and pressurize the cylinder with air and see the % of air that leaks out. They make a special tool to do this. If you have a bent valve you really dont need this tool. You can simply see where the air is escaping from the motor. If it comes from the intake then its an intake valve. If it comes from the exhaust then its an exhaust valve. If it comes from the crankcase then it would be the rings. If it comes from the radiator(take cap off) then it would be a head gasket. If it is a bent valve your going to have quite a bit of air escaping. The best way is to have the tool because it will show you exactly what percent of leak down you have, but if you want to do it just to see if it is a bent valve apply about 90 psi to the spark plug hole. If the motor is not exactly at top dead center the motor will turn over and you get to start over.

 

checkin ur tolerance is a good sign, i have like 4mm gap wen my intakes were, so if ur clearances are fine then i don't think it'd b ur valves

 

The crank trigger is located on the right side of the motor while sitting on the bike. It is a magnetic pickup sensor that runs off of the flywheel. Basiclly it creates a small amount of voltage when ever the flywheel passes over a small tab attached to the flywheel to tell the cdi to fire a coil. You can test the trigger by the wires coming out of the cover with a digital volt meter. first you need to test the resistance. The resistance should be between 190 and 300 ohms. If it passes that then check for AC voltage. While turning the motor over the trigger should create between .4 and .7 volts AC. Before going to all this trouble though pull the plug and check your spark and see if you have a good spark and a consistant one.


If you dont have a shop manual bye one. best $60.00 you will ever spend if your going to do your own work.
GOODLUCK!

 

Ouch.... I feel like I'm in over my head. At this point....I hate to say this.. but I may let the DS go. I will check the valve clearance first. I'm kind of overwhelmed with this new info. I didn't think it would be like this. I have rebuilt my DS once before (with a shop manual in hand) and it wasn't this much of a headache. Somehow I got a gut feeling a valve did bend. What is the tool i would need. Right now I'm scraping the bottom of the barrel and as it is I don't have all the stuff I need to finish this. The shop manual has info on stock parts.. not shim under buckets so I don't know if taking to a dealer would be worthwhile. Last time I took something to the dealer left me 500 bucks lighter and I supplied the parts!!

 

PULL YOURSELF TOGETHER MAN!!! It will all work out! Have a beer on me.

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]