After reading some info from you guys on valve adjustment, I decided to take a look at mine.
I couldnt get a .003 shim to go on the intake side............. I assume thats not good.
The exhaust side gauged in at .004 and .005. I think the spec is .005 +/-.001?
Do I need to worry about any other components since I was opening the intake early?
god, I hope not.

Any information would be a big help!!!!!
Thanks in advance

Tom
The new guy here

 

Nope, just adjust the clearences for the intake right and run her! just don't forget to use locktight and torque the cam carrier down right.

 

The manual does not call for LT on the cam carrier. I would not recomend it. Just torque it to 89 in lbs or 10 nm.
Here are some hints when you remove the cam carrier.
1: take a zip tie and ZIP that chain to the side of the frame. Its a pain if you drop it.
2: there are 2 bolts on the side of the black bridge. I would shove a cloth down the chain way so they dont fall into your clutch case. Do the same when you reinstall them.
3: lock your crank with a top dead center bolt.
4: put TONS of oil on the top of the motor before you put the cover back on. You want to ensrue its VERY lubed up.
Other wise you can search this forum for detailed instructions on how to do it.

 

on the cam carrier........is there a specified torque u need to put on the stay bolts?

 

yea 89 in/lbs I posted it above.
The vlave cover is the same.
Infact, the entire job that will be done is 89 in/lbs

 

I forgot, there is one place you use blue loc tite. it is on the BLACK bridge that has the 2 vertical bolts.

 

.005 +/- .001 on intake. so what is the spec on exhuast? I need to do mine to. I heard you can just lift the cam carrier up a bit to change the shims without takeing it clear off. and zip tie the chain to the cam sprokets to keep it in time. is this true? or is it easier to take it all the way off?

 

I kept everything on and just lifted the cam assy enough to get the shims.
The Intake and Exhaust valves have the same spec limits.
Now if I can just find shims........ my local dealer sucks

 

hey the whole problem about getting shims can be solved by simply reusing them after getting them ground at some local machine shop, i have an small edm machine shop next to where i work and the guy there just hooked me up with the grinding on a small surface grinder, sooo my point is find any machine shop with a surface grinder and don't get screwed on prices to get this done, shouldnt be more then like 10 or 20 $ to get 4 shims done, i just took them in, marked how much they had to go down and he had em done in 30 minutes, a couple thousandths per shim is a no brainer for a guy who knows how to do this kind of work, lates guys, josh......