I'm getting ready to install my hi comp piston this weekend and started wondering about pulling the jug/cylinder. I will be draining all the oil and coolant (installing new clutch springs as well) but was wondering:

When I pull the cylinder off, will there be a bunch of coolant splashing down and getting into the case? IF SO, what is the best way to keep it to a minimum?

I'm told I can do this job with the motor in my sled. I'm planning on cutting the top motor-stay off and pulling the tank (obviously). Any other problems associated with such a task?

Thanks for your help guys!

 

NOTHIN HUH????

Guy, I'm tired of beggin'

HELP!

 

I drained everything but it seems like some coolant got into the combustion chamber. Just take your time.. if it does happen just try to clean up asap.

 

I'm hoping that after I drain the coolant from the left side water pump bolt, the upper radiator hose all other coolant lines to the head, I should be able to take the head off with little problem. It's when I'm pulling the cylinder that causes me aingst [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

I just want to get as little coolant as I can (preferably none) in the case. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

Any tricks would definitely be of help.

 

By the time you get the bike down to pulling the top end off, it's about as well to take a couple more bolts out and work on the bench. You can do it in the bike though. You don't have to cut off any mounts.

You'll have some leftover antifreeze. Just lift things enough to get a rag under it before completely removing. Wipe up as you go. If you get some on top the piston, and you probably will, clean it up. It will all be OK!
Set the ring end gap carefully according to supplied instructions. Make sure you keep the endgap square and parallel. Use a jewelers file to knock off the rough edges on the gap when your done. Watch out for those factory torque specs on the head bolts, they're a little much for me.

The supplier of the piston kit should be able to give you much better info over the phone than all the details here on the computer.
Happy tuning
222

 

Have we all agreed on a recommended torque value? Are we damaging the head at the given torque value? I would hate to pull a stud through! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

I would love to ask the piston supplier, but I bought the piston from a local shop. They took it out of a DS that decided to go to a 720. The piston has about 4 - 5 tanks on it. Not a scratch on the thing. Ring package seems to be right on line. It's a RWR piston, so I guess I could call Elliot.

I was told that there was top motor stay that is in the way. Didn't think I could pull the jug will it was on there.

Is this not the case?

 

i think wen i did it the piston was halfway down the stroke, so some coolant did go down the cylinder i just used a rag n soaked it up, just take out a motor bolt or two and tilt the motor, it'll be tight but it will come out without cutting anything

 

Yes the upper motor mount area is the part that will hit the frame as you try to lift the cyclinder. You can and should either take some of the material off of the cyclinder or off of the frame. I did the frame on mine. If I had to do it again I would take it off the cyclinder. No reason other than easier to remove aluminum that steel. The left over coolant will get on top of the piston. Not much but some. Wipe it up. Definatly place rags around the crank and rod. Don't remove them until the last minuite.

 

Torque values: I pulled a stud out the very first time I did a DS motor BEFORE I reached the recommended torque value. No other mfg recommends that high a value for the same size stud. I have since gone back to tried and true values for that size stud.

If you pull the front motor mounts and loosen the rest so the motor can fall down, you don't have to grind anything off, although I guess it might make it easier. If you have an extra 30 minutes, just pull the motor out, it makes things so much easier and might even pay back the extra time.

Rings: Are you considering running the old rings? I wouldn't! They have already broke in to another cylinder.

222

 

Thanks for all your help guys.... I think taking the motor out might be the way to go, I'll check it out when I'm disconnecting everything.

RINGS!!!!!

It is my opinion that there is no way in the world that the old rings took seat in the cylinder. I'm thinking that the rings will be ok, by never the less I'm going to call RWR and see what the ring end-gap should be and order a few things.

I still don't know what I should be looking at as far as torque goes???? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]