I gotta nother minutes worth...

If in fact you are outta spec, getting the shims out is not that easy. For one the cam carrier will have to more than likely be unbolted after you remove the timing chain tensioner (it a big bolt on the side of your jug near the carburator). And two, the oil beneath the shims creates a powerful suction that makes you think the shims are glued down...you need a pretty strong magnet to pull them free. And don't forget to stuff a rag into the opening where the timing chain goes down to the crank just in case one of the shims decides to play azzhole and get sideways...that's where it'll try to go!

Hope I helped you make up your mind.

 

got one more minute for me? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

how common is it for a new machine to go out of spec after break in?

if im 75% or more sure they will be out of spec, i will probably just have them do the work....(that, or i can always check them, and if they are out of spec, take it in to them, so it dosnt take a really long time for them to do the job)

 

Buckets are like little cups...they're upside down so they slide over the valve springs and the end of the valve sort of touches the inside bottom of the cup...on the outside bottom there is a little ridge and that's what the shims sit in. Your cam lobes are egg shaped and as they roll they actuate your valves--open/duration/lift whether it be intake or exhaust--by pressing against the surface of the shim which sits in the outside bottom of the bucket. When your valves are closed (and your crank is set at TDC/top dead center) you should have between .004 to .006 inches/.1 to .15mm of clearance between the cam lobe and the shim.

There is an awesome web site with pictures and complete instructions and I thought I had it in my faves but can't find it...SOMEONE PLEASE POST THE LINK...thanks!

Jim

 

Some do and some don't go out of spec after break in...I'd say that it's unlikely that your quads out unless it's running or starting different now, as in bad. After FSWII in '03 my quad was running terrible, didn't want to start, was puking out a lot of blow-by and I went thru a lot of bs with Micheal's of Reno trying to get a valve adjustment done...ended up printing out the pages from the link I hope someone will post, talked to ThePunisher till he wouldn't answer my calls anymore, and then went for it. It wasn't as bad as I imagined, and I was very thorough...dead roll thru before hitting the starter, etc.

The bolt I mentioned actually comes out of the side of your stock plastic swing-arm skid plate. It is a recessed bolt/tapered head with an allen keyway and is 3 inches long or so...I think there is more than one of the same that holds that piece on. You pull it, grind the end to a taper, and then below your water pump--clutch side--there is a allen bolt that when you pull it oil will spill out a little but in the hole you can see the balancer portion of you crank. On the magneto side there is a plastic sloted cap, pull that and with an extension and a long allen wrench/socket type you can rotate your crank until you can see a groove on the balancer thru the little hole on the other side below the water pump. I know it sounds complicated, but after you've done it once you can charge your buddies the $60+ the check clearances in no time at all![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Roost , DO NOT TAKE IT TO THAT YAMAHAW DEALER they will for sure screw you ! The minimum labor rate in IL is about 62- 75 $ per Hr. it's going to take almost that 1hr to get everything set up to begin the valve adj. . I gaurantee you they have no idea what they are getting into . Most of the Bomb dealers by me don't even stock shims they order them as needed . You should buy the manual and do it your self . The only dealer I found to have the shims was in Elkhorn , Wi. Petrie Motorsports (very nice people )