Well I'm still waiting on my stroker crank been 5weeks now I'm with bigbaja. I going with a 88mm stroke and standard bore the piston is from ron wood high dome 14 to 1. has anyone hear ever radiused the coners on the head of the piston for flame travel?? well I did it kinda like doing the ports but it's on the piston, you also make a small pocket for the spark plug on the side.. the spark plug in the middle when check didn't come close to the piston so I didn't bother. I been doing alot of reading about this and if you look at your piston when to take your engine apart you can see dead spots where the flame cant get to when burning because of these sharp coners. I also think that a lighter piston because its only 100mm can rev faster and easier on the crank is better than maybe a 102 or larger. I have also read that the closer to the bore size matching the stroke size the more volume metric effiency and power an engine will make.

Well the crank is going to be balance and stroked 5mm. oo you know you can't really balance a one cylinder engine you just move the vibration out of you rpm range. the crank though will have roller bearings ( I dont know how well thats going to work but the company thats doing the work said that it will be more relible and more powerfull)!!

The cylinder that I got was standard that I ringed and bored out the hole for 10mm bolts. I'm also having it renikisled.

Old setup was a 680 102 bore 12 to 1.. The engine did pretty well all summer long BUT!!! on inspection on disasble told a bad story which could have been disasterous!!!! the piston was hitting the head it didn't do any damage to the piston but its still NOT GOOD! the shock from hitting the head damaged the main bearings by shock loading them. I have a race head good head I'm pleased with it but I have never checked valve clear it has shim under bucket.my question is exactly where are the shims at?? under the springs/ under the cam carryer/ under those bucks because I can't find any and if there isn't any why didn't he put any in????

How much hp do you guys think it'll have when I'm done?????????
100mm bore ronwood14to1
88mm stroker with rollers bearings 698cc?
modified mbrp
45mm mukini carb with carb mount
ronwood cdi (mit change to msd)
race head with 40int 35exh
webb cams special grind 435 lift 290duration with a +4 not shure what +4 means? webb cam said for the engine and the type of raceing that it was great.

HP????

 

Whats with the secrets! spill the beans already! I didn't know RWR made a 14:1 piston?

 

My bad![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Wow! Someone needs their A.D.D. medicine [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] j/k

Interesting set-up.

Team Pami does the squish band on their heads and their pistons are tapered up all the way from the outside edge. If you need it done, The Preacher did my head when I went to the big bore!

Maybe I don't understand what you are saying, from what I have read (unless I didn't understand it right) I think however you'll find you want to keep the combustion towards the center of the piston. The spark can't travel quick enough to be effective on the outer rim. You are better off limiting the fuel/air volumn that is in the edge and creating more compression. Check This Site Out!.

As for your HP / Torque??? No idea. Should your HP go up or mostly your torque?

Did you sell your 680 yet?

 

Sorry I cut my finger and its hard to type I've also been working for 10 hours in a hospital. What I was tying to say was that as the air fuel mix travels on and over the top of the piston it will swirl over the sharp edges creating eddies on the back side of the sharp coners as the flame travel across the sharp edges it cant get into the eddies and the fuel is unburnet. I also unshrouded the valve pockets so there is a smooth flow of fuel in and out. the page that you pointed out is good but I'm work with a domed piston and most of the time they are working with a flat top piston. write back what do ya think also by have 100mm bore is better like you said the flame has a hard time getting to the out side and I think that is a problem when you get into the big bore ds's

 

I'm really no authority on this stuff. Well over my head. But, I didn't think combustion ever actually reaches the outer portion of the piston.

Where power is created more so with the larger bore is simply a matter of surface area. What I mean is if you have 200 PSI (pounds per square inch) and only one square inch of surface area you don't have nearly the power as you would if you had 6 square inches.

 

Try ceramic coating the top of the piston and the head and valves, and a solid dry film lubricant on valve spring's Rod and main bearings . http://www.hpcoatings.com/

 

Interesting web site I'll have to look into that. almost the same as nikising a cylinder!

 

It works for F1, CART, IRL, NHRA it should work on a ATV. When I rebuild My taranny this summer I will due it and Cyro to .

 

64 hp