Thanks for bring this up. . . I've been meaning to say something. Here it is: I don't believe the dyno!
When I first started to modify I had the K&N in the box. One trip I went to the direct mount K&N and I was able to get up a hill that I had a tough time with before. Maybe it is the elevation we usually ride at (4000'). I don't know but, I have seen the direct mount pick up a good 3-4 HP on mine and on my buddy's quads. I understand the idea of straightening out the flow as it goes through the carb and into the head. Yes, this should increase flow but, weather the flow is being straightened in the tube or in the carb, with the filter set-up we have the air is still coming from all sides and crashing into itself causing eddies. The best would be a flat K&N mounted vertically straight back from the carb and a velocity stack shaped intake leading directly to the carb.

Not saying anyone is full of BS, I'm just saying that my experience has been different than what others has been.

 

Dune Me,

I have had the same experience as you did. If I remember right I think I was the one that talked you into go with the carb mount.....dunno cant remember for sure. DSa had the same experience as i did before he went with the lectron, now I am not sure what setup he is running. I can buy it if the airbox is removed and the filter is on the end of the tube. Then it is basically the velocity stack set-up you were talking about. If it is in the box, I have to call massive BS!! More air equals HP and there is no way in you know where that you can get more air in that motor with the filter even semi enclosed as you can with it completly opend up. My old quad non-NOS was absolute proof of that. RWR CDI and Pipe, 15/40 gearing, carb mount K&N filter, and dynojet kit was all she had on her and many can atest to how it ran.

 

DemonDS, you bring up a good point about the air box. I agree a carb mount filter will be exposed to much more air then a filter that is in a closed or semi-closed air box. Check out my picture page, I use the air tube and no air box. This setup also eliminated the direct mount filter being rubbed by the seat and frame. The air tube is a probably a poor velocity stack, but I would hope its better then none at all. The next issue is if the air tube will collapse, hence the hose clamps for added support. Ideally someone will make a rigid tube with an ideal design to promote air flow.

 

i never had the best experiences with carb mount, but ran it for about a year, put the tube back on and still working a few things out but so far better results no box just tube, i don't like how the filter is exposed to more splash from the tires though

 

I ran a carb mount K&N on my TVI 720. It ran good, but on reading an old post on this forum, I started looking at the filter and where it sat. With the seat on and the K&N in place, the filter is sandwiched between the frame cross member and the bottom of the seat. I built a rigid tube 2 1/2 inches around that has a 22 degree turn down 3 inches from the carb. It extends out 10 inches. The K&N is now mounted there. It is now wide open to airflow. I have had to go from a 142.5 main jet to a 157.5. The bike now is much more response and 'seat of the pants', much faster. I have dyno time scheduled for next week and will try to report the numbers after the final dial in, but: more air needs more fuel= hp!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Hope this info helps.

 

SANDMAN430- What compression are you running on your 720 ?I know how your quad performs with the carb you have and it is very fast but how do you like your mikuni and is it easy to tune?

 

i don't know the exact compression and that is a can of worms i don't want to open, it is in the range you want, i never do much to the 45, it might not be as easy as the lectron but probably not as hard as some make it. but it was the carb to have when i bought it.

 

The 2003 and 2004 Air tubes appear to be rigid enough to not collapse, I revved the crap out of mine recently and didn't see the tube move at all other than vibration. If you see a 2003 or newer air tube compared to an older unit the difference is clear. I have the hose clamps on my 2003, but after having seen the tube not collapse, I'm planning to take them off in the near future.

DuneMe,

Since you have a pretty good way to test out the HP output (going up that hill that gave you trouble) you might try one of the 2004 air tubes & see what happens with a filter on the end of that.

 

think there are any hills that will bother the 760?

 

Sorry Blackhawk. . . that was light years ago!

I'm running the dual FCR's these days.

I ran into a guy at Sand Mt. a few years ago that had something like Cardiac it talking about. He made one for my buddy and I. I never got around to installing mine and now I don't need it. My buddy is running his still. He likes it because there is a tab on it that mounts to the frame to keep the intake tube mounted up to the carb - sometimes they want to slip off the carb.