I need to get my valve guides replaced, I'm thinking I can save a few bucks if I remove the head myself and send it out to get rebuilt. how big of a job is removing the head?? thanks

 

Well there are a few ways to do this, and the decision is all up to you. This argument has been going on for al ong time, and I think the best way to solve it is use your own judgement. If you plan on removing your head more than one, you may wanna go with option 1. If this is a one time thing, I'd suggest option 2. Nobody can seem to agree on which works better but like I said u be the one to decide.

Option 1-Take off the valve cover and remove the cams and all that. Don't drop your timing chain... Take off the head bolts and then lift the head. You'll notice it hits the frame just above it, on a weld bead. Grind this bead off and the head should slip right off. And it's pretty hard to grind it off too far so no worries. This makes it much easier to remove and install over and over agian.

Option 2-Do all the same as option 1, but instead of grinding, loosen the rear motor mount a bit, and remove the front one and the motor should tilt forward enough to slide it out. Like I said this way is easier for a one time removal, but after time (switching valves, pistons, u name it) it just gets annoying.

So like I said use your discretion as to which option would work better for you.

And if anyone disagrees or has anything to add, feel free... I'm just a guy trying to help another guy out.

Hope this helps

 

I just finished my top end this morning, and Bomb has done a great job of eliminating the "old days" nighmares.

I piled the chain up on the bottom of the case and it wasn't near the problem of the old jap motors of yester-year....I just used a coat hanger thingy to "reel it in" and I could easily see it was properly seated on the right gear.

The only kicker was a torque wrench is mandatory with so much aluminum in the area......

jbt

 

Keep us updated on the progress

 

I had to clearance the top head mount with a saz-all and clean it up with a sanding disc once the head was off. Basically, I removed the metal inside the brackets center gap.

It was more than a "clean-up a weld" gig on mine. I had about 3/8" of material that needed removed. I removed about 1/2" just because.

jbt

 

how do you know you need new valve guides? check the valve seals first.

 

the previous owner had the motor rebuilt at a dealer, I called them to verify. they said at the time they put in new valve guide seals, he also told me on the phone that the 650 is hard on valve guides and recomended having bronze guides installed. he wasn't being a salesman, he said they wouuldn't even do it at the dealer he said to send the head to Ron Woods or somebody like that to have the head rebuilt. I guess it's possible it just needs seals, but if they were replaced already....

the motor runs strong and has LOTS of power, but it smokes REAL bad, when I give it short bursts of throttle, or when I am at full throttle and let off, it smokes real bad. and if I am at idle and rev it up and hold it it smokes real bad. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

well i think you should do it yourself that way you have a good understanding of the ds

 

yeah I think I'm gonna try to remove the head myself, but I don't think I should rebuild the head, don't you need special tools to remove/install the valve guides?

 

yeah you might call around on the head, check with mr hp or tvi on that or woods