First & neutral only - help
#1
Frist & neutral only - help
I hope someone can help me with this problem. I just bought a 2001 DS650 and took it out today for the first time. Rode for 30 minutes with no problems. When I was climbing out of a wash the temp light came on. I shut off the bike right away and check everything-coolant and oil. Both were OK, I figured that the since it was about 95 it may just the nature to the beast in higher temps. I let the fan run and started it up after a little while-no light. Continued ride after about 15 minutes it happened again but I was going slower. Shut it off and let it cool-fan was still running. We turned around and headed back to the truck at a quicker speed-more air flow. About a 1/4 of a mile from the truck the light came on once again. I shut if off and let it cool. I started it up and started riding again. When I went to shift into second-all I got was neutral. I downshifted back to first-worked fine. Tried to upshift again-no second-only neutral and first. I was able to get it back to the truck. Nothing I did would make it shift to second. When we loaded it on the trailer I found the front spocket gaurd melted. What happened?? It has Bombardier oil in it, full of coolant and I wasn't riding it like I stole, well maybe a little. It has a Ron Wood CDI, White Bros muffler, and a K&N filter. I need an idea of what happened. How much am I looking at for repairs, can the transmission be disassembled with out splitting the case. Any information would great be appreciate. Thanks.
#2
#3
Frist & neutral only - help
Your oil tank is up in front. At the botom of it is a can that has two connectons. One is a plug and the other is your oil line feeding your engine.
Use one of those drill pumps and stick it in your dipstick spot to drain the oil. Then put a larger butter tub unter the plug one and pull the plug. If you did a good job getting the oil out of the tank, all the left over oil will fit in the margarine tub.
Now that you have all the oil out, pull the line off the other connection and unscrew the fitting. Inside the fitting is an oil screen. Check it and let us know how plugged it is. Hopefully your engine wasn't starved for oil.
I wouldn't expect the tranny to go with heat, I would expect the crank bearing to go though.
Front sprocket guard melted? Wow, that's a lot of heat. How was it running? You may have already lost the crank bearing.
Yes, you have to split the cases to get to the tranny. You can remove the clutch cover to get to the clutch but, that's about it.
If you get an inexpensive engine builder you can get your engine apart and back together for about $500 and you then need to add for parts.
You may want to keep your eyes open. . . there are a few people out there with spare engines or at least bottom ends if you need one [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] (Drop me a PM) [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Only other thing that I can think of is if your shift shaft got bent either by too much heat or too hard of shifting things could be hanging up.
Use one of those drill pumps and stick it in your dipstick spot to drain the oil. Then put a larger butter tub unter the plug one and pull the plug. If you did a good job getting the oil out of the tank, all the left over oil will fit in the margarine tub.
Now that you have all the oil out, pull the line off the other connection and unscrew the fitting. Inside the fitting is an oil screen. Check it and let us know how plugged it is. Hopefully your engine wasn't starved for oil.
I wouldn't expect the tranny to go with heat, I would expect the crank bearing to go though.
Front sprocket guard melted? Wow, that's a lot of heat. How was it running? You may have already lost the crank bearing.
Yes, you have to split the cases to get to the tranny. You can remove the clutch cover to get to the clutch but, that's about it.
If you get an inexpensive engine builder you can get your engine apart and back together for about $500 and you then need to add for parts.
You may want to keep your eyes open. . . there are a few people out there with spare engines or at least bottom ends if you need one [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] (Drop me a PM) [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Only other thing that I can think of is if your shift shaft got bent either by too much heat or too hard of shifting things could be hanging up.
#6
Frist & neutral only - help
Well, I drained the oil and removed the screen. It looks pretty plugged with some sort of blueish plastic debris-very strange. The debris also has clear flakes in it. I looked at the filter and none appears to be in it. Any ideas what this might be? The engine still sounded health-no knocking. Also, I called around today and got an estimate of about 8-10 hr to repair the transmission plus parts, it this right. Would I be better off trying to find a replacement since this one may have been starved for oil? Thanks again for any help.
#7
First & neutral only - help
BLUE?? Only thing I can think of is Loctite [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
The plastic gears are either black or white.
Check your oil filter for gold flakes. If you have a lot of material than your crank could be toast.
When you pull your oil dip stick is there anything else in there? Any milky look?
Those hours look about right. You'll want to update the shift forks while in there (about $50 each) and a good idea to put a new shift shaft in too. I would think that is about $50. So, you are probably looking at about $200 in parts (+ gaskets / seals) and figure 10 hours labor at whatever your shop rate is.
The plastic gears are either black or white.
Check your oil filter for gold flakes. If you have a lot of material than your crank could be toast.
When you pull your oil dip stick is there anything else in there? Any milky look?
Those hours look about right. You'll want to update the shift forks while in there (about $50 each) and a good idea to put a new shift shaft in too. I would think that is about $50. So, you are probably looking at about $200 in parts (+ gaskets / seals) and figure 10 hours labor at whatever your shop rate is.
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