Justin,

Sorry to hear your motor is already having problems!!! I was really hoping to hear at least a year without tearing into the motor. I agree that if the piston is a problem that Kelly should deff. make that part of the kit. hope you get it up and running before you take off on friday. Keep us updated, rebuilding the motor is one thing that I don't want to be doing all the time if I get the kit.

Tom

 

Cracker you might consider that a richer fuel mixture could have washed the rings down. If its pushing oil out the sprocket seal then you are blowing alot of boost into the crank cases.

This problem tends to show itself on higher hp engines. What happens is- the engine is artificially cooled with fuel instead of curing the real problem of heat/detnation which should be addressed with a colder heat range plug and higher octane fuel.

Which plugs are you running and what is your air fuel ratio? The answer to these two questions will probably tell you what happened to the motor.

If I were you I would split a box of pistons with scooby. He already knows what ring package, dome configuration, compression height etc. are needed to work in a turbo engine.

 

I will order the pistons if ya give the make and model to me scooby. Let me know. How long would they take to get??? I was running the stock plug and I did change to the white brother cdi set to 8500rpms. It was the recommended cdi by KMS due to back ground noise and the ecu. could that white brother cdi be advancing the timing at higher RPMS and causing problems??
Anyways, I have my credit card ready I just need to know who to call. Scooby?? would ya take two of them??

 

the piston is not a stocked item, so they are made to order in sets of 4, which takes several weeks unfortunately.

 

compression was 135# with the decompression mechanism disengaged. Thought for sure rings but then when taken apart the rings and piston look great as well as the cylinder and all the gaskets. I heard the rings will be bad and ya cant tell by looking sometimes. Anyone else found that to be true??

 

the compression should read slightly over 200psi for a stock motor, with decompressor "disabled" and turning motor over several times until reading maximizes. You also have to hold throttle wide open to get the correct reading.

unfortunately i've been in the same position myself, taking motor apart thinking something was wrong when it turned out to be turbo and/or fuel injection related and not the motor.

i would install an EGT gauge so you can monitor jetting and have some indication that the ECU is doing what it should be.

you could have a problem with the turbo itself.

i'm not a big fan of routing the hot low pressure return oil into the turbo. i use the cooled, higher pressure at the oil pressure sensor port, but drop the pressure down using an orifice.

i'd gap the rings while you have the motor apart.

 

could you see the turbo pressurizing the crank case. The turbo uses a oil film for the bearing and kms felt the turbo does not have a large enough opening to the crank to pressurize it. I did the compression test properly which means the rings or valves are the only posibilities. Do you agree scooby?

 

I have seen oil leak from countershaft seal.

If you are only getting 135 psi of compression with a stock piston, stock cams, with decompressor disabled, throttle held open, cranking several times, then something is wrong. If not piston/rings then yes valves. Maybe you have a bent valve. I've bent many intake valves. What rev limit do you have and what valve springs?

 

white brothers 8500 rev limit and stock springs valves. (more like 8000) I was trying to stay reliable and still have some good power. The valves look great. There was also no smoking involved with the blowby.

 

what were the results on the leak down test?