hey i was just wondering what are the best ways to run Nitrous without tearing up the engine. stock piston for now.

 

To start off with stay conservative on the shot you plan to run, don't spray on 87 octane, dont spray less than WOT, dont spray at low rpms. Is that what you are looking for, or are you wanting to know how to plumb it, or how to run the electonic side of the install?
Justin

 

whats safer on the internals, wet or dry. i thought dry, then i heard some ish about running lean from pressure on floats or somethin. also i heard its ALOT cheaper to piece together your own kit.
basicly tryin to figure it i should run it or not and it so how to do it best

 

If you are going to keep the complete air box, you can run the dry, but it you plan on running without the air box, you will better off buying a wet set up. In most cases, unless you have most of the parts laying around, its cheaper to buy the kit. The bottle will cost you ine the neighborhood of 120-150 for new, the solenoids 80-100 each, stainless line usually brings close to 20per ft around here plus fittings, plus fogger, plus switches, plus wiring, plus jets, plus fuel pump etc...it ads up in a hurry if you dont have the parts laying around, order a good kit and save you time hunting bits and pieces.
Justin

 

You dont need the air box to run a dry system. They tend to be more money though. Check my pics. Jed

 

Has anyone entertained the idea of using fire extinguisher bottles for nitrous instead of paying hundreds for a nitrous bottle? just a thought, i came across it while looking at some DIY nitrous kit.

 

Not fire extinguishers, but back when I was concerned about hiding it on my busa, I used paintball bottles, just had to swap the
valves. Not real sure I would want to take a chance on a fire extinguisher bottle holding up to the psi that nitrous can go to if overheated,
or overfilled. I have popped a couple of blow off valves, when they go the pressure is over 3000psi, I would be concerned about shrapnel.
Later
Justin