Caster/Camber
#1
Ahhight, Got a 2000 DS. Rebuilding the front end, new ball joints and tie rod ends. Anyone know what the Caster/Camber settings should be? I have a guage and turn plates and plan on measuring the bump steer and ackraman while I'm at it. Also, should caster/camber be set w/ rider on seat or at static ride height?
HELP!!!!
HELP!!!!
#2
Unless you have aftermarket A arms your camber and caster are fixed and can't be adjusted.
However this link will tell you all need to know on the camber / caster / toe adjustement subject. While doing the toe on the DS. I settled for 1/4" Toe OUT with me on the quad.
http://www.lsracing.com/installguides.php?step=4&igid=5
However this link will tell you all need to know on the camber / caster / toe adjustement subject. While doing the toe on the DS. I settled for 1/4" Toe OUT with me on the quad.
http://www.lsracing.com/installguides.php?step=4&igid=5
#3
Thanks Eagle, I understand caster/camber pretty well.
The ball joints at the end of each a-arm have threads to adjust camber. The heim joints close to the frame side in the a-arms will adjust caster. I just need the settings. So yes, both can be adjusted on stock arms.
Can anyone shed some light please?
The ball joints at the end of each a-arm have threads to adjust camber. The heim joints close to the frame side in the a-arms will adjust caster. I just need the settings. So yes, both can be adjusted on stock arms.
Can anyone shed some light please?
#4
heim joints? adjustable ball joints? if you have those items, you dont have stock arms.
I have heard caster is set at 4 or 5 degrees from the factory. I personally think it should be more like 7. camber will change as the suspension moves as you know. so, I would set it at 0 with the weight of the rider on. some people that ride dunes like to set camber negative so it goes zero when loading the suspension. I dont think its a big deal.
I have heard caster is set at 4 or 5 degrees from the factory. I personally think it should be more like 7. camber will change as the suspension moves as you know. so, I would set it at 0 with the weight of the rider on. some people that ride dunes like to set camber negative so it goes zero when loading the suspension. I dont think its a big deal.
#5
bus, My DS is a 2000. I bought it used but everything looks to be stock. The ball joint have a threaded ends that inserts into the a-arm. There is enough threads on either side to change the camber quite a bit. The upper a-arms bolt to the frame through a heim joint that is threaded into the a-arm. Those also have quite a bit of thread for adjustment. Allz I need is the factory settings.
I also measured my bump steer and ackerman(sp). The bump was fine and the ackerman was +3 on either side.
I may have to take my guage down to the dealer and check a floor model if you guy's can't help!
I also measured my bump steer and ackerman(sp). The bump was fine and the ackerman was +3 on either side.
I may have to take my guage down to the dealer and check a floor model if you guy's can't help!
#6
what kind of gauge you got? did you do runout?
the only setting I am aware of is the 4 deg. caster. if you set it at 4 deg. you will probably have to toe it out a little to keep it from wondering. unless you ride sand. then it wont matter so much. thats why I suggest around 7 deg. then you you can toe it in a 1/8" or so. and have better turning angles. toed out gives you to much "toe out in a turn" sorry I dont have any more solid numbers for you.
somebody must have changed your a-arms. the stock arms have only bushings and press in ball joints.
the only setting I am aware of is the 4 deg. caster. if you set it at 4 deg. you will probably have to toe it out a little to keep it from wondering. unless you ride sand. then it wont matter so much. thats why I suggest around 7 deg. then you you can toe it in a 1/8" or so. and have better turning angles. toed out gives you to much "toe out in a turn" sorry I dont have any more solid numbers for you.
somebody must have changed your a-arms. the stock arms have only bushings and press in ball joints.
#7
bus, I'm using a Longacre digital C/C guage w/ turnplates. I have these because we race Late Model Stock Cars here in NC. I have set front ends on Cup cars, Busch and Trucks but they all turn left. Never set front geometry on quads before.
Is there any way to contact someone at Bombardier ti get the specs? Does anyone have a tech line #?
Thanks bus!
Is there any way to contact someone at Bombardier ti get the specs? Does anyone have a tech line #?
Thanks bus!
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#8
You may have one built very late in 2000? Mines a 2000 and it still has the stock a-arms which you can't adjust, they suck too. I've just never got around to buying some aftermarket yet but will one day. right now mine gets pretty hairy around 45 or so mph but once you top it out it runs pretty straight as long as your on a smooth straight section of road. Someone might have swithched yours out with later model a-arms also so they would still look stock.
#9
#10
Originally posted by: Crash0000
bus, I'm using a Longacre digital C/C guage w/ turnplates. I have these because we race Late Model Stock Cars here in NC. I have set front ends on Cup cars, Busch and Trucks but they all turn left. Never set front geometry on quads before.
Is there any way to contact someone at Bombardier ti get the specs? Does anyone have a tech line #?
Thanks bus!
bus, I'm using a Longacre digital C/C guage w/ turnplates. I have these because we race Late Model Stock Cars here in NC. I have set front ends on Cup cars, Busch and Trucks but they all turn left. Never set front geometry on quads before.
Is there any way to contact someone at Bombardier ti get the specs? Does anyone have a tech line #?
Thanks bus!
I beleive hightower has done a lot of tweeking front ends. he might chime in here with a good perspective. also, you may be able to get some good numbers from ASR. or some other after market arm co.


